Thanks, Mark - drill press and disc sander are my machine tools, radius is hands and eyes.

Howdy,



Wow! Even more impressive then.

I'd very much be interested in hearing your process for making these (by PM if you'd rather the world didn't know). I'm envisioning you drilling a hole & tapping it, then using that and a fabricated mandrel (both w/head cut off?) to spin the thing in the drillpress while you shape it?

I'm surprised you don't have a small lathe for stuff like this, bushings, etc!

Mark

Mark - You got it. I also fabbed a jig to help get the hole drilled and tapped on center and straight. Lathe would be nice - maybe some day.

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?sho...ic=8550&hl=

I moved the splitter stuff there.

I have to have one of these. I would always see the white knob in the C5-Rs and want one so bad...and in black it is even better.

Shipping to 60083? I will paypal you as soon as I know the total!

Alan, I am very intersted in one of the shift knobs but this freaking divorce has pretty much busted my wallet. Will you keep these in stock for later dates or make them as they are ordered?

Also, about your upcomming splitter. Would this incorporate converting the car to a front breather? and what would the chance be of us getting one with just a big airdam rather than splitter. A splitter in ORR is just to much on the nose of the car. If the cost wasnt to astronomical I would more than likely jump on that type of design.



What kind of shifter is on the right?

Boyce - No sweat, I'll keep the tooling and some materials around indefinitely - I rough them in batches, then do final finishing when I get an order so I generally can ship one the day after I get a confirmed PayPal.

Splitter/dam does require front breather, I'll have the plenum as an option for those that are starting with a stock front end.

Dam only would be a different product than dam/splitter. I agree a splitter that was effective in the 80-140mph range that we see on a closed course would be too much for ORR @ 165+

Both shifters are LT1 T56, left is stock, right is a new B&M. The older B&M (my cars is at least 10yrs old) has a different shaped shaft but fits the Delrin knob just fine.

Regards,
Alan Blaine
Blaine Fabrication
831 427-3296

I'd like a price for a 1 1/2 diameter black 3rd gen shipped to 76063

Thanks!

Howdy,

So I drove the car tonight for about 1.5 miles with the new shift knob.

I definitely like it better than the stock cueball.

Thanks Alan!

Mark

Nick - Total price including USPO shipping is $49. PayPal to:
ablaine (at) cruzio (dot) com

I have one in stock, can ship Mon.

Thank You!
Regards,
Alan Blaine
Blaine Fabrication
831 427-3296

ChevyWeatherman - Sorry, I missed your post. $49 total including USPO shipping. PayPal to:
ablaine (at) cruzio (dot) com

Thank You!
Regards,
Alan Blaine
Blaine Fabrication
831 427-3296

Got mine intalled yesterday, I love it. Thanks.....

i like mine alot. very nice.

I had a chance to use my knob this weekend. Definitely made for a more precise gate entry. Having the knob closer to my hand, meant quicker hand speed when finding the gate. Nice piece.

No inuendo intended ...

Glad they are working for you all - I made a couple up tonite for my lastest victims - a Miata and a Subaru. They'll be shaken down next weekend at Thunderhill.

What do you think of the texture? My last passes are with a single cut file, it comes out quite smooth to a bare hand, a little grippy to a leather glove. Any tendency for a gloved hand to slide off?

Didn't notice it. I was wearing a Mechanix glove and not my Sparco racing gloves, though.

I'm still undecided on the texture. It felt quite slick to me at first. There was no actual danger of slipping off (yanking up on the shifter being a somewhat rarely-used technique); it was just a little disconcerting until i got used to it.

Some simple, shallow, round-bottom grooves cut on the "lathe"-press might be an improvement - or, they might not. I'd have to try it.

Shifting definitely seems faster. I think that's as much or more from improved hand position (compared to my stock Hurst knob that I've been using on the Ripper) and better feel of the the synchros and gates.

I am very suprised on how much you can feel through the shift knob. I feel like I am in much more control of the transmission now. I am not using it to race, just a street car, but it is a pleasure to use. One thing I can't stop doing is resting my hand on top of the knob like I used to do with my Hurst knob, and sometimes I catch myself gripping the knob on the top like I did before with the Hurst.

Alan Blaine,
Dude, I just paypaled you can I get one of those shifter knobs ASAP.
Thanks Dude,,

Don't do it, Alan ... Dude will be pullin' both wheels ...

PM sent ......

I finally dropped the shifter in tonight and went to thread my ultra cool shift knob on and... it's way too big.

Here's the shifter I have: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku

Is 7/16-20 a common size for shift knobs?

TJ - No, have not seen a car with that thread - that is getting pretty small. Sounds like Hurst uses a different thread than stock. Are you sure it's 7/16"-20? I can make one for you in that thread, but I would need to add a steel threaded insert, like I do on the Mazda knobs, which are 10mm.

I searched on thirdgen.org and someone reported that as the thread. I'll get a nut to double check tomorrow, Alan.

Don't tool up or anything yet. I'm thinking about getting a cheap ball just to see how I like the shifter or I might just run the stock one.

Got mine the other day. I'm pleasantly surprised that even with an aftermarket shifter, the Delrin knob still offers more "feal" than the leather Hurst.

Alan, I've decided to just cut the shifter handle and weld a M16 x 1.5 bolt to it with the head cut off.

If I ever decide to sell the shifter and someone doesn't like the way it looks, they can go buy another handle

That'll work, I do that for the Toyota shifter - it has no threads after ripping off the rubber isolated upper section. I drill a hole up the bottom of the M16 bolt, and grind the shifter shaft down so I get 1/2" or so of insertion and do a perimeter weld. I don't trust butt welds on small section stuff.

Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, I don't have a vise for my press so I'll have to butt weld it. I'll just grind the bolt and shaft down so I can get 2 passes or a wide weave over it.

The knob in question from Blainefab..

http://www.erbesclan.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=22

So I had my car in Alan's shop (like normal these days... he's addictive). With all the other things going on, Alan mentioned that he had an extra one of the knobs lying around and that he'd sell it to me - I figured "what the heck", it's not much money, and if I hate it I can always go back. At this time Alan had still not driven a car with one of them installed (I don't think that's the case anymore, though...).

All I can say is... wow. My T56 no longer feels like farming equipment. I went from the stock knob to this knob, and I can feel the teeth engage in the transmission much, much better now. I can snick it into gear. It's amazing.

Highly recommended. I have no experience with other shifters, but this one kept the throw that I'm used to (slightly elongated since it's taller now), made it easier to grab on to, and made it more precise. Didn't expect anything other than it being easier to hold

Yes he has!

Yeah, I'm late in adding my thoughts I didn't know you had one, Julie. He actually put it on a while ago, and I used it for the first time back in April for the rainy Thunderhill outing. I should've posted then