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#21
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
There was a copper/brass 3 core radiator in my Camaro when I bought it. It was grafted into our Lemons Supra (it was HUGE compared to the stock radiator). The other Supra teams seemed to be having issues with cooling but we never did. I suspect that radiator played a large part in our victory in that race. We just kept turning laps.
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#22
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newbie Group: Members Posts: 7 Joined: 18-January 11 Member No.: 43,083 ![]() |
Working on the car this weekend, intending to install an S&W cage. Obviously missed the April race at Gingerman, now using the pre-sanctioned marital calendar time to catch up on the car (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
The main and top hoops fit the car quite well, the A-pillar/down tubes are less than good. I did try inverting the tube so that the short bent section is at the top but that results in the tube being very far from parallel to the A-pillar. All tacked progress so far, input most welcome. (IMG:http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5186/5622762407_9cf93a473d_b.jpg) (IMG:http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5068/5622761893_56dbf6b420_b.jpg) (IMG:http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5182/5623348486_22eab30f72_b.jpg) (IMG:http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5067/5622766459_0001de3d1b_b.jpg) This post has been edited by ansonivan: Apr 16 2011, 01:48 AM |
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#23
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FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
I did an S&W kit in my '89 Formula, fit was just about identical to yours. I was hoping they'd improved over the years.
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#24
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newbie Group: Members Posts: 7 Joined: 18-January 11 Member No.: 43,083 ![]() |
Once I get past the a-pillar tubes I think it will be fine, notching for the top hoop connection is a nightmare since I have to join on the bends which are slightly deformed from the bender. Lots of grinding.
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#25
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newbie Group: Members Posts: 7 Joined: 18-January 11 Member No.: 43,083 ![]() |
Welded the bottoms of everything and then dropped the a-pillar tubes through the floor in order to 360 all the welds. Went with tig because it's more fun than mig.
(IMG:http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5023/5627907072_632d4f32a4_b.jpg) (IMG:http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5265/5627324617_cac0ccc80b_b.jpg) (IMG:http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5228/5627320219_a3bbc5c954_b.jpg) |
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#26
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,887 Joined: 3-July 04 From: Pearland, Texas Member No.: 385 ![]() |
Take those pictures with you to tech. The last event we did they really went over the hidden welds in the hoop and halo, and had failed several due to incomplete welds. Demonstrating that you went through the trouble may get you through tech faster.
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#27
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 175 Joined: 18-February 04 Member No.: 228 ![]() |
Once I get past the a-pillar tubes I think it will be fine, notching for the top hoop connection is a nightmare since I have to join on the bends which are slightly deformed from the bender. Lots of grinding. Be careful with any deformed tubes, the tech guy, John (evilgenius) will be all over them. As far as radiators, if you show up with a new one, they'll be all over that in BS. If you have a new one, leave it in the box and replace it "sometime during the race" BS laps shouldn't matter, though as a great goal for your first race should be to take the checkered flag under your own power. The only way we're going to be able to put a V8 in the T bird is that it went up in flames last race and we got 350 to spend from Jay. This post has been edited by matt f: May 6 2011, 12:57 PM |
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