So now I'm considering getting a new set of freshly rebuilt heads. Loyyd Elliot sells reworked heads complete ready to bolt on for $800. It would be kind of a same to bolt old heads to a new bottom end.

Are there any other heads that you guys would recommend?

With that mileage, I'd at least hone and ring it. Make sure the bottom end seals up to match the top end. But this is where project creep begins....

Jim posted a link to a rebuilt LS1 block for sale for a good price. So I may get that block and put new heads on it. Then I'd sell the block for whatever I can get for it. Possibly. Or maybe I should rebuild it and put it in my LT1 car.

What's your budget for the assembled heads? From GM, the 241, 243, 799 or 743 (5.3l head) castings seem to be the best of the lot, but they may require center bolt valve covers if you don't already have them. You might find a deal on a good set of these used castings to send to a porter which would be less expensive than using new heads. Some heads have a special notch in them that others do not have, so ensure you pay attention to that when ordering the matching gaskets.

From what I can find, the following companies are popular on LS1Tech for vendors who port stock castings. I'd recommend posting over there to discuss.
Texas Speed & Performance
Advanced Induction
Total Engine Airflow
Lloyd Elliot, although more popular in the 1st Gen LT1 community

http://youngstown.craigslist.org/pts/5707157619.html

http://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/pts/5708786799.html

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/pts/5705352104.html

http://allentown.craigslist.org/pts/5691759948.html

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/5701198649.html

http://twinfalls.craigslist.org/pts/5693955394.html

Thanks Jim. I don't want to take a chance on another used block. The 2 guys block interests me because I'd spend nearly that much on just cam, lifters, oil pump, timing chain and front cover gaskets. But he hasn't responded yet.

I think I'm back to leaving the bottom end alone, new cam lifters and springs and put it back together. New oil pump also, but that's it. Ok oil pan baffles, but seriously, that's it!

Um hmm, that's what we all say (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I've said that on every one of my projects.....every single one. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/drink.gif)

Car - noun - 1. an automobile. 2. a big hole in the garage you pour money into.

(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

My dad just stopped by and saw the car. He couldn't believe how nice it is and definitely wants to buy it from me. So, time to order some parts!!

One thing we talked about is the long tubes. When he had them on the 97, they always leaked, rattled against the cross member and had serious ground clearance issues. He just doesn't want to deal with that again. So I'm going to do some research and figure out what cam and springs we should go with. I'm still thinking something similar to an LS6 cam, LS6 intake manifold and possibly 01-02 exhaust manifolds. I hear they flow better than the 2000 manifolds, but I'm not sure.

I'm really excited. I was a little worried what my dad was going to think. But he was more than excited. The other thing that's a must is new wheels. So I'll have to get some help on wheel choices. I think we should get 18's and possibly do a 315 square size. I'd like to get wider tires than the usual 275's since we are getting new wheels anyway. This is going to be mostly a weekend toy and occosionaly he'll do some HPDE's. I know he doesn't want to deal with track tires, so NT-05's will probably be a good tire for both street and track. I know it was great on my M3.

I think it was Texas speed who had a 212/218 cam on a 114 lobe separation that seemed like it should work well without headers. I was eyeballing that one because I really don't want to deal with headers (if I were to put a cam in the new toy...though I think I'd be better off with a Procharger). They do a .550 and a .600 lift version. I didn't want to have to keep changing valve springs every year or so, so the low lift seemed interesting to me.

Hooker is making a set of mid-length headers now that look really nice and offer huge ground clearance compared to long tubes.

They are nice, but man they are expensive. I had a hard time finding any really good results. One dude said they were good for 4 tenths down the 1/4 mile.

These are the less restrictive manifolds, not the 01-02, right?


(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/0FE78045-020B-42F8-A6FC-85A5D3D72F75.jpg)

I want to rock the stock manifolds and see what kind of results we can get. My dad wants drivability and use ability over max power. We can always add headers later if we need it.


Thanks Kevin, I'll give them a call next week. He wants zero drivability issues and something easy on springs. Sounds like they'll have a cam that'll be good for us.

LS motors, + long tubes = serious HP. DON't do a build without them.

Everyone says that, I know. But there's really not much data showing that you can't make decent numbers on stock manifolds. The LS6 did it with stock manifolds.

My dad hated those headers so indeed to try to make the manifolds work. He knows if they don't, we'll do headers in the future.

212/218 low lift

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-5002-texas-sp...k-camshaft.aspx

212/218 high lift

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-4925-texas-sp...k-camshaft.aspx

216/220 low lift

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-5004-texas-sp...k-camshaft.aspx

216/220 high lift

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-5072-texas-sp...k-camshaft.aspx


With the "no headers" requirement, I'd likely lean towards the smaller cam with the low lift package. It's available on a 114 degree lobe separation. That is likely to be a good choice for "no headers". They seem to indicate that you can buy any of these cams ground on a 114 degree lobe separation, call them and see what they say.

LS1/LS6/LS7's/shorties/midlengths/longtubes in that order should flow the best. They'll all bolt up to the heads, but from what I've read only the LS1 F-body manifolds will be compatible with the F-body engine bay and suspension without hacking. The LS6 exhaust manifolds were only available for the Corvette, and the LS7 manifolds exit in the center instead of the rear like stock. From a performance perspective I'd not bother with shorties or midlengths, though.

Whomever you contact regarding a replacement cam, inquire about valve springs and whether your current length pushrods are the correct length. They may want to know what lifter you're using also. Ideally, you would use a pushrod length checker after everything is assembled to determine a pushrod length in the preload window, and order that length instead of assuming up front.

If you stick with stock exhaust manifolds now, realize you'll need to have the car tuned once for the stock manifolds and again after adding headers. A cam designed for stock manifolds will not be optimal for headers, and vice versa. So you will be making a compromise unless you decide to swap to another cam at the same time you install the headers. Ground clearance with longtube's should be fine at stock ride height but you would need to keep an eye on it if you lower the vehicle, or if your front suspension is soft enough to allow the front to 'crash' down after going over a speed bump which would hit the collectors on a speed bump. The y-pipes for longtubes are hit'n'miss, my ARH fit really well though.

I think there is a difference between LS1 manifolds. The 98-00 and the 01-02. I'm not 100% sure though.

This car is on coil overs and it's going to sit pretty low. Not slammed, but lower than stock. I just know he doesn't want to deal with long tubes. Another thing he really wants is low end torque. I don't know if long tubes compromise low torque.

I'm going to get an LS6 intake manifold. The PO already has a larger TB, so that should be a nice compliment to the ls6 manifold. Maybe I'm wrong, but with an LS6 cam, or something comparable, the cam might be the limiting factor, but the manifolds. Now for those who put a big cam, yeah I could totally see the manifolds being a problem.

Maybe it's just hopeful thinking.

PDF parts manual shows these manifold part numbers... it's a little hard to read the part numbers when I zoom but I think this is correct. No idea on the functional differences or whether they mate to all versions of the OEM exhaust components.

exhaust manifolds
98-99 12560193, 12560194
00 12559506,12559507
01-02 12567706,12559507