I'm not sure we are reading the same thread.

Kevin, let me know if you make it to a local autocross. I want to feel better about how much I've spent on mine.

I was kinda thinking the same thing. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) I suspect you'll know the car if/when you see it. lol.

This build is not the cheapest thing, but it's nothing "wild". That's likely the weird disconnect. No cam, heads, headers, stroker kit and a blower on this one....but quality parts aren't cheap. And my signature is still the unfortunate truth. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

At one point I gave the cost breakdown to that point. I guess I'll try to update it here (I probably don't want to know).

I was trying to keep this sane and stay accountable, so I'll update the totals for those who are following along (it's worse than I realized...but it always is):

$11,500 - Car
$199 - UMI PHB
$499 - UMI SFC
$389 - UMI Swaybars
$249 - UMI Aluminum sway bar mounts
$1849 - UMI Shocks/springs (coil overs)
$200 - B&M Ripper shifter
$40 - Hurst Shift knob
$150 - 10 bolt girdle
$550 - 10 spoke wheels
$650 - wheel refinishing
$450 - new tires
$99 - iPod adapter
$99 - SLP "lid"
$79 - UMI STB
$200 - Stoptech pads (F&R) and new front rotors
$20 - SLP license plate bracket
$39 - SLP TCS disable module
$20 - Jegs skip shift delete
$199 - UMI Poly/Rotojoint LCA's
$180 - Ram adjustable master cylinder
$150 - Ram slave and throw out bearing
$389 - Fidanza flywheel
$460 - Centerforce dual friction clutch
$700 - Stage 2 transmission upgrade (parts only)
$50 - Doorman hydraulic line (master cylinder to quick disconnect)
$40 - Ram remote slave bleeder
$100 - Hawks billet clutch reservoir
$475 - BeCool 2 core aluminum radiator
$375 - C&R Power Steering cooler
$140 - OEM heater hoses
$18 - heater hose to throttle body
$25 - radiator hoses
$150 - Holley Water pump
$450 - Rocketman hub adapters
$130 - used spindles
$175 - Moog front end rebuilt parts
$225 - Global West upper control arms

$21,712 (yea, I really didn't want to know)

I haven't made a complete total for my build, but I am 95% certain that is more money than I have in all of the parts that are on my ESP build. I didn't spare expenses either.

I could have had an ESP car $5k ago...but I'm not that smart. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I'm now registered for the UMI cruise in:

http://umiperformance.com/umicruisein/

I haven't been around an autocross course in nearly 10 years. I think I last ran in 2007 or 2008. But this seems like a good excuse to dust things off, buy a fresh helmet and drag the car out to play.

Who's coming along?

New heater hoses arrived yesterday. I did manage to order the factory assembly with the aluminum pipes and rubber hoses on the ends. It came from GMpartsdirect...with a made in China decal on it. I don't know if it's OEM or a reproduction? Oh well.

I'm seeing a LOT of parts coming out of original GM boxes with 'Made in China' stamp on them, so you probably have the real McCoy there. Hopefully, the QC on those parts are a little better than run-of-the-mill Chinese products. Most of the parts for our Holden (Caprice) come from China. I'm sure that's how the Aussies do it.

One of the few recalls on our '02 GMC was the tailgate straps. It seems the OEM ones could suddenly break under a load. I was quite disappointed when I had a look at the replaced straps that proudly-displayed the 'Made In China' stamp. Luckily, though, they've held just fine, so far (knocking on wood sound now), and we've had pretty good loads on them.

This post has been edited by CrashTestDummy: Feb 1 2017, 02:01 PM

The tailgate straps on my 2015 are already split and showing signs of rust. I need to go see the dealer about getting those replaced under warranty. It's not like I use the tailgate every day, it's not a landscaping truck. I have no idea why they have already split the plastic covers and started to rust.

So they STILL haven't learned how to do them right!?!

They do. They just don't want to spend the money.

The straps on my 99 F250 are still just fine. Just saying

Heh. The tailgate straps on our GMC looked fine, it was just that some had come apart under load, which, I guess, could make corporate lawyers nervous. The replacements still look fine.

It's just the rest of the truck that sucks. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

Just kidding. The 7.3 liter trucks are serious trucks. Unfortunately they ride like serious trucks too. But they will certainly do work and lots of it.

They have a really smooth ride actually! As long as you have about 1500 lbs in the bed. 😄

We replaced rear springs on a 2001 F250 (the one we put a crate diesel in a few years ago) and my friend said "Sure, I want the upgraded springs". Now the rear ride height is about 4-5" higher than it was, the springs weighed 110 lbs each and it needs 2 tons in the bed to ride decent. lol.

I believe it. Someday when I find about $2500 in the couch, I'm going to get the firestone airbag kit that replaces all but one leaf, and has an automatic ride height adjustment using an onboard compressor. You have a smooth ride, but when you load up the bed, it automatically compensates.

These trucks are all about compensating. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/gr_grin.gif)

Honestly, that wouldn't be a bad plan. My old Chevy 3500 rode better than my friends F250. Whenever we took my truck places, he'd always stretch and say "Cadillac". Compared to his, it was.

Not sure how heavy you haul, but going back to stock tire sizes helps the ride assuming you always leave them aired up.

I've got a 2004 F350 6.0/ZF6 dually. I singled it up in the rear last winter and it was actually enjoyable to drive. It's amazing how much the extra 150lbs of wheel/tire hurts ride and driveability. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Airing up/down a dually is a pain, it's almost the same time to swap wheels/tires.

Transmission is out. We pulled it on Friday night. It was a bit more challenging than I remember so I'm apparently getting old, or this car is a bit harder to work on than the last few. Maybe both. lol.

Now to get time to go through it.

I've never just pulled a transmission, what's the challenging part?

I'm looking forward to seeing the progress.