I agree and I don't see or feel much fluid on the cooler lines (though one fitting was a little wet). Hoping it's just the pressure hose. At this point I wonder if I shouldn't just rebuild everything, though the rack only has 64k miles on it (but it's had years for the rubber to dry out).

That’s kind of a crapshoot. Perfectly good rack goes out and comes back with a schetchy rebuild. Maybe find and/or get a rebuilt spare, but if the car has enjoyed mostly street use, i’d Not poke that skunk with a stick.

The pump and hoses are different, and more commodity-based. I find racks more car-specific, and the replacements being more generic. No guarantee you’d get your original back. But that’s just me.

I can send the rack to Turn One for a rebuild. I can also order an AC Delco reman rack for $156 and a $75 core. It claims 2 turns lock to lock.

I need to get it up in the air and see what's leaking...

I had a fitting start leaking after driving maybe 25 miles after installing a cooler... hopefully it's something easy

Yea, I did the new cooler last winter and I put several thousand miles on it over the summer. It's really odd that it waited until I warmed it up one day to decide to puke all over the place. Just seems odd that it let go at idle just as the coolant came up to operating temp. I'll know more this week once we get under it.

I have a new AC Delco pressure hose and I have replacement return hose in the garage. I'll see what I find under the car and see if that's all I need to replace. It's certainly an odd failure. In good news, it didn't let go at redline and spray oil all over the hot exhaust, etc. Might be the first time I've been lucky like that.

Last night my friend Bill came down and we drove it up on ramps and looked for the leak. It was only leaking slightly during the start and trip up the ramps (I did fill it with fluid before starting it). But it was leaking from a cooler fitting. The fitting seemed to spin on the 6AN barbed adapter hose end, but when we took it off it was tight and difficult to remove. I suspect the hose had a crack internally that allowed the fluid to leak once it warmed up a bit? But I'm not sure. We replaced the whole section of hose with bulk PS hose and clamped it all back together.

I have a new pressure hose, but the other cooler line is a barbed fitting on one end and the other has the hose crimped (like an AC line) to the metal end that attaches to the rack. I can't find that hose. I'm starting to think that 6AN fittings are the best way out.

Does anybody know what size fittings I need for the pump and both sides of the rack to use 6AN hose?

I was going to replace all the factory rubber hoses. I have the pressure hose at home, still sealed in the bag. I bought a new AC Delco hose. And we replaced the rubber return line from the PS cooler to reservoir with bulk power steering hose (it doesn't seem that a replacement hose is available). However, I can't find much about the other cooler line, it runs from the rack to the cooler. The one I found had bad reviews saying they had to bend it to get it even close to fitting. And it wasn't a factory crimp looking setup, it seemed to just have a clamp on the rubber line. Hmm....

So, I gave up and did what I always do....industrial strength problem solving.

I just ordered a Turn One pump with AN fittings on both sides. I ordered the AN fittings for the rack. Then I stopped by Jegs for 10' of teflon lined AN line and an assortment of fittings.

I'm going to replace all the lines in the car with braided, teflon lined hose and AN fittings. That should fix my hose issues for the foreseeable future.

And look dang nice doing so! I love the overkill approach!

That reminds me. There was a problem getting one of the lines on the B-body cars. One of the guys worked with Gates to get a replacement made, since the Delco part was gone from inventory. I need to get to the parts house and get a couple for my inventory.

I tend to kill flies with hammers (actually, I shot one at 100 yards with a Steyr 308, but that's another story). I really wanted to stay with stock looking lines and such. I have taken this car about as far as I planned to take it. Or that was my plan. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Once the PS is done, I'll have to think long and hard about welding a 4 point roll bar in it. I'm really torn on that. I'd like to be able to go play with it at times, but I don't really want to start cutting on it.

My other thought is to take it down to Jeff at Carolina Auto Masters and have his guys throw a cam in it and have him tune it. I don't want to deal with headers or lose the cats, I just want to add 40-60 hp if possible. That may not be realistic with stock manifolds and a perfectly streetable cam, but I may shoot for that and see where I land. I'm too lazy to do a cam these days. It seemed like a good excuse to drag it down to visit Jeff and Julie and see some of the area.

Ya know, hooker (blackheart line of parts) makes a beautiful set of mid-length headers and catted y that has incredible ground clearance. They might help you hit those power goals... (just throwing some fuel on the fire)

Got a parts list for all the AN stuff? I’d like to see what you did when you are done. I’ve gone through a lot of effort to standardize fitting sizes in my car and the PS system is one of the last I need to take care of.

Heh, yeah, I shot a bumble bee with a 12 gauge. >BOOM< he was gone.

Stock manifolds can support about 500 HP, so depending on what’s upstream and downstream, you should be able to do that.

Uh huh....I've looked at the Blackheart stuff. My wife wants me to keep the car quiet and I'm trying....though I really liked the Hooker kit that was on my 2001 SS (she thought it was too loud).



Here's what I ordered. I'll let you know if it all works.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/632620/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/620421/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/620401/10002/-1

https://www.turnone-steering.com/products/9...ant=28874765635 (with billet pulley, with AN fittings)

https://www.turnone-steering.com/collection...ressure-fitting

https://www.turnone-steering.com/collection...adapter-fitting

I didn't order this, but it converts the return on the PS pump (I did, but it should be included with the pump that I bought since the reservoir isn't included).

https://www.turnone-steering.com/collection...adapter-fitting

And I already have one of these (though I have to double check the diameter, I don't believe it's 1 3/4).

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cir-41-5...ASABEgLqbPD_BwE

That PS cooler uses 6 an fittings.

If you don't go that way, the factory cooler looked like it had NPT inputs. I'm assuming (but I haven't tried) you can change them over to an NPT to 6AN adapter.

I ordered a 90 degree fitting for the PS pressure hose and I need straight fittings for the PS cooler. I ordered straight and 90 degree fittings for the rack until I can figure out what fits.

I'll document the swap with pics once the parts arrive in case it helps someone else.

Thanks for the parts list. I have Alan’s big B&M cooler on my car so I’d love for everything to be nice and simple -6. I’ll have to call turn one, I wasn’t aware of the -6 option when I bought my pump a couple years ago.

Tell them you're on FRRAX.com when you talk to them. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

When Garrett (Pilot is his username here) did his turn one pump in about 2004, he did AN lines. So I know the option has been around a while. Then he came to his first autocross (after doing the lines without my help) and blew a line apart. So I stuffed him in my old 2002 Z28 (SM car) and told the ESP guys "It's his first event and his car broke, so he's going to get seat time in mine. I don't think you have anything to worry about, but if he beats you, we'll go with you to protest the car, it's not ESP legal."

So, while I'm making winter plans. I noticed that Stoptech makes replacement one piece rotors for the rear (and front, but I don't need those) of these cars. They are a "pillar vented" design like the front rotors and typical Porsche rotors, etc. My car still has what appear to be the original OEM rotors from the day it left the factory. So, I ordered a set of rear Stoptech rotors ($103/ea at tire rack, then I found a kit at Jegs with pads and braided lines for $269, but I already ordered the other set. I'm not one to swap braided lines onto cars, but these are $103 rotors, $60 pads, $48 brake lines for $269 and I have 15 year old hoses on this car). That should be a good quality rotor for the car. The good and bad news is that they are slotted (or drilled, but I didn't buy the drilled set). I don't love slotted rotors, though Stoptech makes a good quality one. The good part is they will match the front rotors in the current brake kit (not that I'm one to care much about such things).

I've also been talking to Ryan at UMI and I may be doing one of their new Watts links on this car. I've always wanted to play with one of those.

If they managed to make one that fit a fabricated 9" I would switch.

What size axle tubes do you have? Have you looked at the UMI version? It's a little different than some of the others and the axle brackets would have to fit the housing (I have a welder (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) ). If/when I get one to the house, I'll let you know in case you want to come poke at it before it's under the car.

Still running a stock rear for now. It just seems that the UMI piece doesn't offer anything that makes it worth switching to somebody that already has a Fays2. However, if it can be adapted to work with a Fab9 (and assuming I can't just do the same thing with the Fays) then it would be worth making the change when the time comes. Would love to run a MWC 9 but I want no part of their Watts link. I would also have to figure out torque arm mounting, but that is likely easier to resolve.

More goodies arrived via UPS today. Here's the turn 1 bits that just came in. The pump has a cover on the 6AN port. The 6AN return fitting for the reservoir is in a bag (and I'd have to remove it to see it) and the other fittings are for the steering rack.

Stoptech rear rotors (non floating).