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#1
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
Hey guys. I have some questions about oil coolers.
How do I plum to the engine? I'm using a sandwich adapter for oil pressure and temp. There are two unused ports in that adapter. Can I use those for the oil cooler? One of those ports would be for the supply, but where does the return go? It's an LT1 with a Moroso pan. My other question is are there any problems with mounting the cooler above the engine in the hood scoop? I'm planning on securin the lines to the bottom of the hood and run them down the drivers side hinge then to the engine. I can't imagine there would be any problems with the location, but I thought I'd ask in case you guys know something I don't. I'm not going to run a thermostat for the oil. I'm just going to tape the back side of the cooler for street use. |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 739 Joined: 27-June 12 Member No.: 142,453 ![]() |
I'm assuming LT1 style ss hood? I don't think the cooler would get much, if any airflow from that scoop.
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#3
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
I'm assuming LT1 style ss hood? I don't think the cooler would get much, if any airflow from that scoop. LS1 hood, same difference. We don't need very large oil coolers, right? When I would track my 396 LT1, oil temps would only push 250 on hot days with no cooler. Short shifting would cool it down then I could go again. My thinking is it'll be less air than putting it behind the radiator but it'll be ambient as opposed to 200+ degree air. For now I'm tracking a stock LT1, but will have a cammed LS1 later this year (or when the LT1 blows up. |
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#4
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,888 Joined: 3-July 04 From: Pearland, Texas Member No.: 385 ![]() |
Interesting idea, but I think you'll be spending a lot of time worrying about (or needing to worry about) how the lines are routed, and whether or not they're chafing some body or engine parts (with braided steel lines) or getting chafed by some body or engine parts (if they're not braided steel). Remember, the hood opens up and forward some. Additionally, those lines are heavy, and probably need support in several places when they're full of oil.
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#5
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
I guess I'll be the first to try it. If it doesn't work, I can always relocate it.
Obviously we know what an SS hood looks like. (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/490F8025-D442-44CA-AE2B-3024AB4A9F98.jpg) The scoop opening isn't very large, but I think that's ok because it'll be cold air. Plus it won't have the restriction of passing through the radiator first. (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/835F6CBC-0230-4B2B-AE98-614735D12931.jpg) Here's the back side. It's a much larger opening, so the air speed will drop, but it'll allow me to fit a decent size cooler there. I'm going to open it up as much as possible while leaving enough material to mount the cooler. I can fit a 15x4 oil cooler So where do you ideally want the return line? The pan? This post has been edited by Steve91T: Jan 12 2016, 08:10 PM |
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#6
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Member ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 79 Joined: 2-August 13 From: Maryland Member No.: 223,768 ![]() |
I guess I'll be the first to try it. If it doesn't work, I can always relocate it. Obviously we know what an SS hood looks like. (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/490F8025-D442-44CA-AE2B-3024AB4A9F98.jpg) The scoop opening isn't very large, but I think that's ok because it'll be cold air. Plus it won't have the restriction of passing through the radiator first. (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/835F6CBC-0230-4B2B-AE98-614735D12931.jpg) Here's the back side. It's a much larger opening, so the air speed will drop, but it'll allow me to fit a decent size cooler there. I'm going to open it up as much as possible while leaving enough material to mount the cooler. I can fit a 15x4 oil cooler So where do you ideally want the return line? The pan? Do you have a front end conversion on your LT1 car? Just wondering about where your air intake is. |
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#7
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
I guess I'll be the first to try it. If it doesn't work, I can always relocate it. Obviously we know what an SS hood looks like. (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/490F8025-D442-44CA-AE2B-3024AB4A9F98.jpg) The scoop opening isn't very large, but I think that's ok because it'll be cold air. Plus it won't have the restriction of passing through the radiator first. (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/835F6CBC-0230-4B2B-AE98-614735D12931.jpg) Here's the back side. It's a much larger opening, so the air speed will drop, but it'll allow me to fit a decent size cooler there. I'm going to open it up as much as possible while leaving enough material to mount the cooler. I can fit a 15x4 oil cooler So where do you ideally want the return line? The pan? Do you have a front end conversion on your LT1 car? Just wondering about where your air intake is. Yeah I swapped my 99 parts car front even over to my 97. Next year I'll be putting an LS1 in it though. I'm planning on using a cold air intake down in the left front bumper area. |
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#8
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 262 Joined: 24-November 08 Member No.: 3,162 ![]() |
My opinion, I wouldn't put attached the oil cooler to the hood. I would put it low, either in front of , or directly behind radiator.
One reason is extra weight , which is above the center of gravity and the strain on the hood shocks. Two I wouldn't want oil lines to move up and down with the hood. Opportunity for a failure/leak. If you are determined to install the cooler in that space in the hood, I would mount it to the top of the radiator, so that its a rigid mount and doesn't go up and down with the hood. |
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#9
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
My opinion, I wouldn't put attached the oil cooler to the hood. I would put it low, either in front of , or directly behind radiator. One reason is extra weight , which is above the center of gravity and the strain on the hood shocks. Two I wouldn't want oil lines to move up and down with the hood. Opportunity for a failure/leak. If you are determined to install the cooler in that space in the hood, I would mount it to the top of the radiator, so that its a rigid mount and doesn't go up and down with the hood. I thought about the lines moving with the hood. Its something I'd have to keep an eye on. The weight of this aftermarket hood is considerbly lighter than the stock steel Z28 hood, so I think the weight of the cooler will be fine. Where is your cooler on your cmc car? Soooooo........where does the return line go???????? |
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#10
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
I'll scrap the idea. Maybe I'll try for somewhere in the bumper and duct cold air to it.
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#11
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 262 Joined: 24-November 08 Member No.: 3,162 ![]() |
My opinion, I wouldn't put attached the oil cooler to the hood. I would put it low, either in front of , or directly behind radiator. One reason is extra weight , which is above the center of gravity and the strain on the hood shocks. Two I wouldn't want oil lines to move up and down with the hood. Opportunity for a failure/leak. If you are determined to install the cooler in that space in the hood, I would mount it to the top of the radiator, so that its a rigid mount and doesn't go up and down with the hood. I thought about the lines moving with the hood. Its something I'd have to keep an eye on. The weight of this aftermarket hood is considerbly lighter than the stock steel Z28 hood, so I think the weight of the cooler will be fine. Where is your cooler on your cmc car? Soooooo........where does the return line go???????? My radiator has a built in oil cooler, however, previous cars, I've put the oil cooler directly behind the lowest part of the radiator. That is where my power steering cooler is currently located. Very safe, secure and it will get plenty of air. These coolers don't typically need fresh, forced air , just air movement across them is typically sufficient. Return line ? I have always used a remote oil filter adaptor/ sandwich type. It is installed in place of the oil filter and has "inlet" and "outlet" ports. Below is what I have now, I'm sure they make them for the LT1. http://www.canton.carshopinc.com/product_i...id/12349/22-593 (IMG:https://dalgozine.smugmug.com/Other/Camaro-parts/i-LnCVCjw/0/O/Canton%20LS1%20oil%20adaptor.jpg) This post has been edited by DAlgozine: Jan 13 2016, 08:37 PM |
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#12
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 262 Joined: 24-November 08 Member No.: 3,162 ![]() |
Here is a photo of a sandwich type for an LT1 with oil filter. MOCAL EOC filter adapter with inlet and outlet ports.
(IMG:http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c169/qwik93awd/EOC/OilFilterAdapter.jpg) |
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#13
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
Hey thanks for the help. I need to look at my adapter to see what ports it has ok it. I didn't realize they had an "in" and "out" on them. I thought they were all out.
Ill put the cooler behind the radiator. One more question. What size is recommended? Thanks again, Steve |
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#14
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
This is what Canton sells for the LT1. They said it replaces the stock bypass. Is that necessary? Or can I get a cheaper one that just goes between the bypass and the filter?
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#15
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 3,888 Joined: 3-July 04 From: Pearland, Texas Member No.: 385 ![]() |
You might be able to get an old oil cooler line assembly off a 94-96 Impala SS or Caprice 9C1. The rubber lines on them, or rather the connection from the hard line to the rubber lines, are prone to leak, so people just swap them out with the Doorman replacement. You could probably get that assembly from a junk yard for nothing. Cut the hard lines at the front of the engine, and attach your AN hoses to your cooler. Just another way to skin the cat.
Page with image of oil cooler adapter & Notes on replacing the oil cooler on a 9C1 And some more info here: More Impala SS/9C1 oil cooler info This post has been edited by CrashTestDummy: Feb 23 2016, 10:18 PM |
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#16
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
Interesting. I'll have to look into that. I really don't want to spend much on this engine because it's being replaced with an ls1 this year.
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#17
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ear-510erl
Would something like this work? I don't think I have time to try to find a used part. This post has been edited by Steve91T: Feb 24 2016, 01:53 PM |
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#18
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
Anyone know if that adapter will work? I think it's the correct thread pitch.
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#19
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Veteran Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,511 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Homer Glen, IL Member No.: 540 ![]() |
If you're going to replace the engine later this year anyway, forget the oil cooler.
If you're worried about the oil breaking down, just change it more often and/or run a thicker oil. I've had high temp problems on my AI car for a long time due to the radiator and inlet being too small. By high, I've see 260-270* WATER temp from May-Sept events. I don't run an oil temp gauge, but I'm assuming it would be pegged. Guess what? Main bearings always look good because I change the oil and filter often. If the water gets to the 260* range, the oil only gets run for that weekend. Everything gets so hot that it starts melting the cam bearings, but they still last two seasons. Oil is Valvoline VR1 20w50. This post has been edited by nape: Feb 28 2016, 08:23 PM |
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#20
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Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
If you're going to replace the engine later this year anyway, forget the oil cooler. If you're worried about the oil breaking down, just change it more often and/or run a thicker oil. I've had high temp problems on my AI car for a long time due to the radiator and inlet being too small. By high, I've see 260-270* WATER temp from May-Sept events. I don't run an oil temp gauge, but I'm assuming it would be pegged. Guess what? Main bearings always look good because I change the oil and filter often. If the water gets to the 260* range, the oil only gets run for that weekend. Everything gets so hot that it starts melting the cam bearings, but they still last two seasons. Oil is Valvoline VR1 20w50. Well what I'm afraid of is I'm running a stock Y pipe that I'm pretty sure is touching my canton oil pan. Just running around town I'll see 220 degrees. I'm afraid because of that, my oil temp will be way high. But if you had no problems with the temps you saw, maybe I will be fine. I was planning on running Rotella synthetic 5w-40. I use that in my diesel, boat and M3. It's a great oil. |
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