[trackbird]

I've been driving a Jeep Liberty for a couple years as my daily driver (and I've hated virtually every minute of it). Long story short, a 2105 Silverado crew cab followed me home this weekend (just in time for fireworks, my wife and I are both licensed "Exhibitors Assistants" (pyro techs) for professional shows). Within 12 hours of signing paperwork, we were hauling stuff around the site and driving through in 6" of soft muddy grass (oops). It's a truck, right?

I need a front license plate bracket. My truck came from out of state and what they gave me requires drilling holes in the bumper (I'd rather not due to rust concerns). Is there anything like the SLP bracket for the 4th gens that fits the new trucks?

I'm looking for a roll up (semi rigid/secure) tonneau cover.

Throttle response sucks, so I'm going to need a programmer to fix the throttle feel. I'm not worried about power (it makes enough for now), but the throttle could use some help. It opens really slow and then you start stabbing it to get it to move. I'm not a fan.

Has anybody fixed any of these issues? Tips, tricks or recommended parts?

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[CrashTestDummy]

Heh, my wife and I are pyrotechnical techs, too! We have the licenses to prove it! Small world, huh? This weekend was busy for us, too. I'm still trying to recover. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

The poor throttle response is part of the 'torque limiting' programming, that is really pulling most of the timing out of the engine to keep you from killing the spawn in the Prius in front of you at the light. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

We went with BlackBear Performance to tune our Tahoe, and Jason got rid of ALL of that lag. He uses EFI Live, so if you have that, you can easily update afterward with email tunes. I do not know what others use, though, or what works.

[trackbird]

Heh, my wife and I are pyrotechnical techs, too! We have the licenses to prove it! Small world, huh? This weekend was busy for us, too. I'm still trying to recover. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

The poor throttle response is part of the 'torque limiting' programming, that is really pulling most of the timing out of the engine to keep you from killing the spawn in the Prius in front of you at the light. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

We went with BlackBear Performance to tune our Tahoe, and Jason got rid of ALL of that lag. He uses EFI Live, so if you have that, you can easily update afterward with email tunes. I do not know what others use, though, or what works.

Sweet! I figured there were more techs around here somewhere. We've been doing it for a few years now. We did a private show on Friday (a LARGE private show and they hired Journey to play the show in his backyard!?!?!?!?!) and then a municipal show (Chillicothe, Oh) on Sat. I'm still sore...

Funny you should say that, I ran over a Prius in my Jeep a few months ago (did I mention that here?) She made a right on red...and stopped after moving a few feet and didn't have her foot on the brake. It was my fault, I just touched the gas and hit her at 5 mph).

I want a tuner so I can swap it in and out before service. I'm not looking for power, just better throttle response (I jumped in our 4 cylinder Honda accord and "launched it" from stabbing the gas pedal like I've learned to do in the truck now...that's pretty sad).

[CrashTestDummy]

My wife and I have been helping a friend for almost 20 years now. Saturday's show was at a local country club we've been at for about 11 years now, after the previous team pretty much blew themselves up (put a shell in the tube upside down) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif)

This friend had been doing it for many years, and was doing shows when he was in a local Impala SS club we belonged to. Many of us from that club joined him. We'd make a club event out of it. Since a couple of the members were great cooks, we'd bring the BBQs, ice chests, families, set up, and have front row seats during the event. Afterwards, there was a legion of Impala SSs lighting the up the field during clean up. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

Back then, it was a manual event, we'd run a hand auger to dig the holes to drop 3", 4", 5" and 6" pipes into the ground. They served as the launch tubes. During the event, we'd drop the shells into the tubes, and one of us would run by with a road flare tied to a stick to light the fuse. Then you step to the next pipe and wait.... for the shell to go off. After that, a guy comes by and 'rakes' the remains out with a stick that has drywall screws driven into it. That keeps the next shell from being set off by the burning embers that are the remains of the last shell you set off.

I really miss those days, but what we do now is safer. When we manually-fired, the fuse you light has two burn rates, the tip burns at about an inch a second. It's about 3" long. The rest of the ~2' fuse burns at a rate of about 300'/sec. So you light the fuse, take two steps to the next pipe, and WHUMP! the shell goes off! 3" and 4" shells make a nice bang, the 5" and 6" shells take your breath away. Great, great fun!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

We're electronic now, but it's a manual electronic show. We touch a 12v probe to the circuit running to the tubes on a trailer. It's about the same work, and we still have a very front-row-seat to the fun (especially when a shell short-shoots), but you're not up close and personal any more, and misfires are more common than before. We put 400 shells into the air in 29 minutes, not counting the 'grand finally'.


I understand about the tune, thing, though. You have a warranty. The Tahoe didn't, so I'm fine with that. The tuner doesn't lock his tunes, though, so if I want to get into that stuff, I can play with the tune we have, or swap it out for the old tune if necessary (he saved that to the hand-held tuner, so I have that, too). That is one of the nice things about BlackBear, is they'll save the factory tune, in case you have a warranty worry. You DO have to buy the EFI-Live package, though, which is a requirement of BlackBear, but since I already had it, I was only out the tune money (and he updated my way-out-of-date firmware for free!). IIRC, though, they can now tell if you have flashed the ECM (I'm guessing they keep a counter, so the dealer will compare the number of official times you've been flashed, vs. the counter), so that may be moot.

We got our truck tuned for 93, got the torque limiting tune removed, and got the shifts firmed up,and moved around a bit. It's a LOT better that way, and I was able to get almost 20 MPG on the highway with that tune. We kept AFM, as this isn't a race truck, no matter how my wife drives it. That annoying hesitation off the line is completely gone, which makes me a very happy driver.

[slowTA]

I have a Bak-Flip cover on my truck, it's nice, mostly conveninet, but not water tight or cheap. I can sent pics if you want.

[CrashTestDummy]

And it looks like my neighbor has one that slides on his Fjiord. 3 or 4 panels, and they look to slide under one another in one way or another. I'll try to see what brand he has when he gets back into town.

[trackbird]

It's a LOT better that way, and I was able to get almost 20 MPG on the highway with that tune. We kept AFM, as this isn't a race truck, no matter how my wife drives it. That annoying hesitation off the line is completely gone, which makes me a very happy driver.

I averaged 20.5 (rolling 50 mile average) on our trips to fireworks this weekend. That's dead stock with under 500 miles on it. It's beating my Jeep in fuel economy and makes nearly double the HP. lol.

I have a Bak-Flip cover on my truck, it's nice, mostly conveninet, but not water tight or cheap. I can sent pics if you want.

They have a roll up version that I'm considering. It has aluminum slats and rolls up (externally) and you secure it against the back window (in that area).

[mitchntx]

Bakflip F1 here.
Pricey, but extremely easy to use and very versatile.

(IMG:http://lawmotorsports.net/mw/Bakflip_F1_1.jpg)


Also an old man step ....

(IMG:http://lawmotorsports.net/mw/BedStep_1.jpg)

[trackbird]

How do you like the 3 panel version? How much water tends to get in (I know they leak somewhat)?

I wanted this style:

http://www.bakfliptonneaucover.com/revolver_x2

[mitchntx]

I came close to ordering a roll-up version.
I was concerned that the tabs to stck out and into the bed to secure and latch the cover would be in the way or get beat up or reach out and grab me or my gear.
If you catch your leg or back on that, it will leave a mark and make you say bad words.

The panel type latches (at least on the F1) have clear side rails with nothing sticking out.

I will warn you about BAK Industries ... if you don;t purchase from an authorized dealer, there is no warranty.
You can save a couple hundred bucks by ordering through amazon or some other mail order house. But you will be on your own.
I had a latch issue and found that little nugget of information. It was an easy fix and cost a couple bux to do so at Home Depot.

During a decent rain, there is a trickle of water that leaks by when stationary. One channel on each side of the bed will be damp. It has to be a heavy, prolonged downpour for there to be any standing water. At speed, it isn't as bad.

Installation was easy.

As far as use, I've hauled one of these from Denton to near San Antonio (~300 miles) ...

https://www.allseasonsfeeders.com/ProductDi...84%a2_Broadcast

[trackbird]

Good info. Does it fold flat against the window? I usually tied things down at the front of the cab...but I worried about pulling things against it with ratchet straps.

Mine has the bumper corner steps (like the Avalanche). So I can skip the steps for now. And this is shorter than my old 3500 SRW (it was on factory 31" tires) so I can almost hop right to the tailgate.

[mitchntx]

Is this model a didsplacement on demand model?
will the tuner you get defeat that?

I have a module that that plugs into the OBD2 port and defeats that option without leaving a footprint in the ECU.
I no longer need it ...

[trackbird]

Is this model a didsplacement on demand model?
will the tuner you get defeat that?

I have a module that that plugs into the OBD2 port and defeats that option without leaving a footprint in the ECU.
I no longer need it ...

It is the displacement on demand (V4/V8) version. Honestly, it's so seamless in operation and it does appear to save fuel so I'm ok with leaving it operational (unless I find a reason not to). It isn't a flex fuel version, it's the straight 5.3 gas motor (355 hp/383 ft lbs).

Why did you kill that part?

[JJKJ]

I have one of the BAK roll-ups on my 15 Silverado. I think any of the BAK tonneaus are nice options; comes down to your preference on roll-up or folding. I have no complaints so far and am very happy with my purchase.

[mitchntx]

Why did you kill that part?

I have a Sierra max tow with a L94 motor (420/460) and 6 speed auto.
I bought the module because I was having lurching issues and was convinced it was the DoD.
Seems the DoD wasn't a part of the max tow, but on the Denali w/o max tow.

Turns out it was a bad throttle rheostat.
So I have this module with nothing to use it on.

[mitchntx]

I have one of the BAK roll-ups on my 15 Silverado. I think any of the BAK tonneaus are nice options; comes down to your preference on roll-up or folding. I have no complaints so far and am very happy with my purchase.

Yup ... it was a coin toss

[trackbird]

Ah, that makes sense. That's a nice package. I forgot about the max tow, but I really don't need it. I'm sure I won't have 9,200 lbs on the back of this one. I only ever had 9,500 behind my old 3500. So I think this will do the trick for now.

[mitchntx]

Good info. Does it fold flat against the window? I usually tied things down at the front of the cab...but I worried about pulling things against it with ratchet straps.

Mine has the bumper corner steps (like the Avalanche). So I can skip the steps for now. And this is shorter than my old 3500 SRW (it was on factory 31" tires) so I can almost hop right to the tailgate.

No ... it covers a couple inches of the bed.

It has rubber pads that ride against the back glass. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
Not thrilled about that.

[mitchntx]

Ah, that makes sense. That's a nice package. I forgot about the max tow, but I really don't need it. I'm sure I won't have 9,200 lbs on the back of this one. I only ever had 9,500 behind my old 3500. So I think this will do the trick for now.

My camper weighs 7400 dry.

Doesn't take much gear and water to get close to the max.
More camper than I need for the lease, the price was right.

I get 20-22 on the hiway at 65 and 15.5 commuting.
And its speed limited the 92 ... I'm not out of 3rd ...

[trackbird]

That's a lot of camper. I could see how you could load that up and be over weight in a hurry. You still need food, clothes and ammo. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I'm seeing 21.5 (on the only trips we've taken) and I'm running about 15.5 commuting in the city. I can't really complain. My old 3500 only got 14.007 on one tank of fuel on the freeway. I usually got 8-12 out of it around town. This is nearly as much truck (as long as I don't need to drop 2 tons in the bed, this one won't do that) for my uses and the mileage is way better (and 4wd is nice, the last one was a 2wd).

92? I figured it was 106 (but I hadn't gone looking). I guess I'm getting old. I used to do the "very necessary top speed test" on every car. Never had my Jeep over 85-90 (which was likely as fast as it would go anyway...lol), never saw anything beyond 95-ish in my old truck (long story about an idiot kid while I was pulling a trailer). Haven't been over 85 in this one (and typically I look down and go "oops, didn't know I was running that fast" and then I slow and set the cruise).

[bubba353z]

I guess I'm getting old. I used to do the "very necessary top speed test" on every car. Never had my Jeep over 85-90 (which was likely as fast as it would go anyway...lol), never saw anything beyond 95-ish in my old truck (long story about an idiot kid while I was pulling a trailer). Haven't been over 85 in this one (and typically I look down and go "oops, didn't know I was running that fast" and then I slow and set the cruise).

You're definitely getting old.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

Better get the Vette out for a blast through the gears, before it's too late.

[trackbird]

I guess I'm getting old. I used to do the "very necessary top speed test" on every car. Never had my Jeep over 85-90 (which was likely as fast as it would go anyway...lol), never saw anything beyond 95-ish in my old truck (long story about an idiot kid while I was pulling a trailer). Haven't been over 85 in this one (and typically I look down and go "oops, didn't know I was running that fast" and then I slow and set the cruise).

You're definitely getting old.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

Better get the Vette out for a blast through the gears, before it's too late.

If it ever quits raining?!?!?!?! This summer has been one big thunderstorm...

That one might be a little tougher to do the top speed test. I'm sure it will run past 170 and likely past 180. With the gearing, 6,800 rpm in 5th is 201 mph. That puts it at the approximate HP peak in the low to mid 190 range (if it's enough power). I'm going to need some space to play. lol

[slowTA]

I've had one issue with the bak-flip, twice. The latch by the tailgate has pulled away from the panel since they just use self tapping screws. It's only been the passenger side, the first time I just moved the screws over an inch or so and the second time I added extra screws. Of course the first time it happened I was past the warranty period do I didn't bother to call.

[mitchntx]

I've had one issue with the bak-flip, twice.

Twice for me as well.

Both times the release cable loops through the latch's eye and uses a crimp.

Apparently either the crimping guy was either hung over or was thinking about the weekend ...

[CrashTestDummy]

I guess I'm getting old. I used to do the "very necessary top speed test" on every car. Never had my Jeep over 85-90 (which was likely as fast as it would go anyway...lol), never saw anything beyond 95-ish in my old truck (long story about an idiot kid while I was pulling a trailer). Haven't been over 85 in this one (and typically I look down and go "oops, didn't know I was running that fast" and then I slow and set the cruise).

You're definitely getting old.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/nutkick.gif)

Better get the Vette out for a blast through the gears, before it's too late.

If it ever quits raining?!?!?!?! This summer has been one big thunderstorm...

That one might be a little tougher to do the top speed test. I'm sure it will run past 170 and likely past 180. With the gearing, 6,800 rpm in 5th is 201 mph. That puts it at the approximate HP peak in the low to mid 190 range (if it's enough power). I'm going to need some space to play. lol

They do standing miles up there somewhere. There's a guy with a 70 Coupe DeVille who finally won his 200-MPH Club cert who lives in Ohio. That's the place to play with the top end.

We FINALLY dried out. Well, not dried out, I still have at least an inch of water still surrounding our shop. But at least the daily 5" rainfalls have stopped for a while. There's hope for you yet! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) Of course, you can now hearing them building the BIG mosquitoes out in the field at night. Heck, there's FISH in the drainage ditch by our road.

[trackbird]

They do standing miles up there somewhere. There's a guy with a 70 Coupe DeVille who finally won his 200-MPH Club cert who lives in Ohio. That's the place to play with the top end.

We FINALLY dried out. Well, not dried out, I still have at least an inch of water still surrounding our shop. But at least the daily 5" rainfalls have stopped for a while. There's hope for you yet! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) Of course, you can now hearing them building the BIG mosquitoes out in the field at night. Heck, there's FISH in the drainage ditch by our road.

http://ecta-lsr.net/welcome-to-ecta-lsr/ab...hio-mile-track/

I wouldn't hit top speed in a mile. I'd need more space to see what it would run. We talked about that event when it first started a few years ago and found the pricing to be about the same as a day at Mid Ohio. So, we figured we'd wind up at Mid Ohio if we were spending the cash.

I should make it a point to at least go down and watch one year.

[trackbird]

I wound up buying an "Undercover" brand "Flex" tri fold tonneau. My local truck accessory dealer sells Undercover and Bak Industries stuff and they prefer the Undercover. Pricing was similar and they were within about $30 of online pricing, so I bought it from them.

I wound up buying a set of stainless step bars (I really didn't want shiny). I was going to have them sprayed with Rhino Liner but they were afraid it wouldn't stick. So...stainless it is. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) They actually look decent on the truck, better than I expected. And I had the stock bedliner pulled out and I did a spray in Rhino Liner (I had one in my last truck and it was fantastic).

It's all done (I don't want to spend any more money on truck parts, I just want to drive it).

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[CrashTestDummy]

Nice! I think my neighbor has a cover like that on his Fjoird.

We have the spray-in on both of our trucks, and LOVE it. The only problem we've seen is the stuff will oxidize in the sun, and rub off when you rub against it. Kind of sux when you reach over the side of the bed to fetch something out of the bed and end up with a black smudge on your shirt, or arm. Otherwise, the stuff is great.

[trackbird]

My last truck had a Rhino and in 5 years it turned very slightly grey, but that's it. My friend has an old Rhino in his 2001 F250 (that was purchased with the liner in it and very well used) and it's been good so far as well. Either way, due to the plastic bed rails and the cover, it will stay out of the sun. I hope that fixes that issue.

I liked this cover because it had "struts" to hold it when it was folded...it doesn't lay against/rub on the back of the cab. It also has latches to secure it if you only fold it twice. We went to the range the other day and went through a pouring (wipers on high) rainstorm and everything stayed dry in the bed. A little water can get in the bed from rain when it's sitting, but it's not much and I've been pretty pleased. I expected it to leak a lot more than it does.

[CrashTestDummy]

Other than the black smudging that they give you with age they've otherwise worn quite well. Grease, gas and oil don't affect the coatings at all, and they take sliding of stuff over the surface quite well.

What's this 'rain' you speak of? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[StanIROCZ]

I swallowed the pill too, cept mine is a GMC:

(IMG:http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o33/StanIROCZ/GMC/E5C1B1B9-4242-4318-BADD-19EE43E6CB69_zpshqmot0hz.jpg)

SLT 5.3 4x4 Leather holy crap there is a bunch of doo-dads comaired to the '93 I've drove for the last 6 years.

Big reason I went for the latest generation trucks is they come standard with the 9.5" axle instead of the 8.6", the direct injection motor makes more power than the gen IV, and wow there are a lot more features.

I feel like a kid on Christmas right now (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[trackbird]

Nice truck! Did you get the HID lights? I didn't buy the LTZ, so I didn't get the HIDs on mine. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) And I was ok without leather (though I've had leather in most of my recent cars, so I could go either way).

I've done some digging and I also found that these had the 9.5" axle in them. It's not as bomb proof as the 11.5 in my last truck, but it should be a lot more efficient. And the 6L80 transmission has two overdrive gears (I wasn't aware of that either).

What gears did you get in yours?

I just took mine on a 900 mile road trip (from Columbus to the Summit Point Raceway area) and I averaged 18.5 mpg for the entire trip (city, highway, stuck in traffic and all). We were seeing up to 21.5 average (on the rolling 50 mile average) in the mountains with the cruise set on 77-80 mph (with lots of 6-8% grades). I can't complain about that at all.

It requires "Dexos" rated oil (0-20) and it holds 8.5 quarts (seriously). They claim GM can tell if you run non Dexos rated oil and the engine fails. I was not aware of the new Dexos spec, but the green cap Mobil 1 0-20 has the Dexos logo on it.

[robz71lm7]

Nice truck! Did you get the HID lights? I didn't buy the LTZ, so I didn't get the HIDs on mine. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) And I was ok without leather (though I've had leather in most of my recent cars, so I could go either way).

I've done some digging and I also found that these had the 9.5" axle in them. It's not as bomb proof as the 11.5 in my last truck, but it should be a lot more efficient. And the 6L80 transmission has two overdrive gears (I wasn't aware of that either).

What gears did you get in yours?

I just took mine on a 900 mile road trip (from Columbus to the Summit Point Raceway area) and I averaged 18.5 mpg for the entire trip (city, highway, stuck in traffic and all). We were seeing up to 21.5 average (on the rolling 50 mile average) in the mountains with the cruise set on 77-80 mph (with lots of 6-8% grades). I can't complain about that at all.

It requires "Dexos" rated oil (0-20) and it holds 8.5 quarts (seriously). They claim GM can tell if you run non Dexos rated oil and the engine fails. I was not aware of the new Dexos spec, but the green cap Mobil 1 0-20 has the Dexos logo on it.

The LTZ does not have HID headlights-just a projector high beam. It still uses the same H11 low beam bulb too. Also the oil capcity is 8 quarts. GM issued an addendum reducing it from 8.5 to 8 quarts.

I bought a '14 Silverado last year. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

[trackbird]

I bought a '14 Silverado last year. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

Glad to see you're still around! (or have I missed it when you've been here?)

I pulled the 8.5 number from my manual. I guess I'll start with 8 and see what the dipstick says. Good info, thanks!

[StanIROCZ]

Nice truck! Did you get the HID lights? I didn't buy the LTZ, so I didn't get the HIDs on mine. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) And I was ok without leather (though I've had leather in most of my recent cars, so I could go either way).

I've done some digging and I also found that these had the 9.5" axle in them. It's not as bomb proof as the 11.5 in my last truck, but it should be a lot more efficient. And the 6L80 transmission has two overdrive gears (I wasn't aware of that either).

What gears did you get in yours?

I just took mine on a 900 mile road trip (from Columbus to the Summit Point Raceway area) and I averaged 18.5 mpg for the entire trip (city, highway, stuck in traffic and all). We were seeing up to 21.5 average (on the rolling 50 mile average) in the mountains with the cruise set on 77-80 mph (with lots of 6-8% grades). I can't complain about that at all.

It requires "Dexos" rated oil (0-20) and it holds 8.5 quarts (seriously). They claim GM can tell if you run non Dexos rated oil and the engine fails. I was not aware of the new Dexos spec, but the green cap Mobil 1 0-20 has the Dexos logo on it.

Mine's GMC, so I don't know what LTZ is (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) But the I have the SLT which has "Headlamps, halogen projector with LED signature" upgraded over the SLE.

3.42 gear ratio, exactly what I wanted. 9.5" axle will last forever behind the usage you and I will put it to :-)

I haven't looked into oil changes yet because I get it free at the dealership for 2 years. After that, $29.95 for GM spec synthetic. With that price I'm done doing it myself. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

I was somewhat indifferent on leather at first, but I have 2 kids so I thought it would be good for easy clean up. Now I'm glad I have it. GMC is offering 20% off on select SLT models so with the deal that I got an SLT was as cheap as an SLE so it was a no brainer. I'm also glad I have the front and rear back-up camera's because the shoulders are broad on these trucks.

[trackbird]

SLT = LTZ

I did the 3.42's for the tow rating and it makes the gearing about perfect on the truck. I'm glad I held out for that ratio. And you're right, the 9.5" rear is plenty strong for anything I'll ever do with this truck.

Any idea what diff is in the front end? Dana? 8.5"?

[CrashTestDummy]

<SNIP>

It requires "Dexos" rated oil (0-20) and it holds 8.5 quarts (seriously). They claim GM can tell if you run non Dexos rated oil and the engine fails. I was not aware of the new Dexos spec, but the green cap Mobil 1 0-20 has the Dexos logo on it.

Then keep the Dexos oil in it! It seems the current crop of LS3/L99s have weak rocker trunions, which break, letting the needle bearings drop into the engine. Sometimes it's caught as a tapping noise in the valvetrain, sometimes it's caught on engine teardown after the car is towed into the dealership after loosing power.

Some are bringing their brand new Chevy SSs home to start engine mods, and discover needle bearings laying in the head when they pull the valve covers. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

Heck, the engine in our '12 Caprice had a cam and lifter replacement after a lifter failure, but that's associated with the AFM system.

[trackbird]

Yea, I wasn't saying not to run the Dexos oil...just that I was unaware of a new oil spec out "there". Just mentioning the things I've learned in case I can save Stan some time. lol.

[CrashTestDummy]

Yeah, I was surprised at that, too. Had to go get a couple of quarts so we could add some before autocrossing the Caprice. Luckily, we can use Dexos-grade in the other vehicles we're running Mobil1 in so we'll just cycle out the old stuff for the other cars, and probably start running the older vehicles on the Dexos, too.

The Caprice was great fun on the autocross course, BTW. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

[StanIROCZ]

Any idea what diff is in the front end? Dana? 8.5"?

I'm pretty sure it is the 8.25" AAM that has been in there since the 80's, with some enhancements.

[StanIROCZ]

I ordered this roll up tonneau cover: http://www.realtruck.com/truxport-tonneau-...2015Y856MA.html

4.5 stars and almost 700 reviews, made in the USA, and only $270 on sale.

[robz71lm7]

I bought a '14 Silverado last year. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

Glad to see you're still around! (or have I missed it when you've been here?)

I pulled the 8.5 number from my manual. I guess I'll start with 8 and see what the dipstick says. Good info, thanks!

I lurk. I really miss you guys. We should have a reunion one day or get together.

[robz71lm7]

Also check out gm-trucks.com and get a catch can as your first mod.

[trackbird]

I bought a '14 Silverado last year. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

Glad to see you're still around! (or have I missed it when you've been here?)

I pulled the 8.5 number from my manual. I guess I'll start with 8 and see what the dipstick says. Good info, thanks!

I lurk. I really miss you guys. We should have a reunion one day or get together.

We can always go to the range again!

[trackbird]

Well, it's been a bit over a year now. I figured it's a good time to come back and give an update.

The 4wd system is amazing. We've been shooting on my friends farm when the ground was super soft. It was soft enough that we were past the sidewalls of the tires (in mud deeper than the height of the tire sidewalls) and it never missed a beat. It didn't try to get stuck, never gave any indication that it wasn't going to just motor through. We didn't have mud all over the sides or anything, it wasn't "mudding" in the traditional sense. We were just out in grassy pastures that were so soft we sank 6-8" into the grass which quickly became mud. The AWD setting is great in winter, there's no binding of the AWD system in turns when you run out of snow, etc.

Fuel mileage is quite good. The "best 50 mile average" gauge is showing 22.1 mpg. That was run from rush hour in Columbus to about 60 miles east. I had the cruise set at 75, then 77 and finally 80 for the last 20 miles. I was in traffic and they seemed to be breaking some air for me, but I'll still take it.

I towed the Camaro home from Grand Rapids on a 1,700 lb open trailer and with the cruise set at 80 for a portion of the trip. I still saw about 15 mpg while towing the Camaro. That's pretty impressive. However, the factory shocks are junk. They were "bad" when I bought it but I tried to live with them. The trailer bounced the rear end off the bumpstops (or nearly so) at every expansion joint. It was awful. The truck has plenty of power (though I'll always take 200 more HP if anybody wants to build them that way), but the shocks are pathetic. I've been resisting the temptation to install some Bilstiens, but I think that's on the list for very soon (assuming I keep the truck). The integrated brake controller was flawless. It worked seamlessly. I was really impressed. I had a Tekonsha Prodigy in my last truck and it always seemed to have too much initial bite or to soft at first and too much as braking increased. It was still one of the best brake controllers out there, but it was never exactly "right". I never had trouble stopping the trailers (but my 3500 and my new truck both have pretty serious brakes), but the integrated system is the best brake controller I've ever used.

The tonneau cover has been great. However, the company that built it used screws that are just long enough for the "point" of the screw to hit the layer of metal below before getting tight. So, they stripped some of the fasteners to the point that they virtually fell out when I tried to adjust the latches on the cover. Then the "bars" that run across the center (with the release cables through them) have come loose. Just the second one actually, but it's fallen off a few times. Last night I put steel pop rivets in it and pulled the rusty screws out. I then emailed the company because it appears to have a 3 year warranty (far longer than I expected). I'll keep you posted.

The local Rhino liner shop did the Rhino liner. It's the thinnest Rhino liner I've ever seen. I had one in my old 3500 and it was indestructible, truly tough stuff. This one tears anytime I put something in it. I moved a 4 cubic foot dorm fridge and it tore holes through to the paint. I took it to back and they keep patching it with urethane (like you glue windshields in with). I contacted Rhino directly and they contacted the shop who called me for a meeting. When I got there, he offered to put urethane on the spots. Awesome. So, I'm actually thinking about trading this truck in and buying another one....and going to Line-X.

I still dislike the throttle response. I'm still not a fan of the transmission calibration and how it shifts. And I still have a high frequency noise when it's in 4WD or AWD mode (all of them have it, I've sat in 2016's and they have it too). GM has a TSB out on it, but only to say it doesn't hurt anything and they recognize it...but they have no fix. It's funny because my wife can't hear it, but I can. After years of loud car stereos and doing stereo competitions in my youth, I appear to still have pretty decent hearing.

Overall, I think it's the best truck in it's class (the Tundra gets crappy mileage and the Ecoboost doesn't seem to be living up to expectations either...and it costs a good bit more than the Silverado). It's just sad that it's not "better". With that said, I'm still watching for deals to buy another one.

And my wife has decided that I'm just not happy with anything when it comes to cars. Maybe she's right?

I probably shouldn't be so honest since it could wind up in the classifieds here at some point. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[CrashTestDummy]

Nice update. We're still enjoying our '02 GMC. Best truck I've ever owned. It just runs. I recently replaced the yellowing/hazing light lenses (headlights, turn signal, HMSL, and brake lights) and the thing looks new!! Those parts were pretty cheap, even from GM, so I figured that I'd do it now, so I have a few more years with the truck. I also installed LED all the way around. The headlights are awesome. I had to replace the flasher, though. The stupid thing is hidden under/in the dash, you have to take the freaking dash apart to replace it!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) Hell, it's easier to replace the cabin air filter.

Following your blockers is a great way to get MPG, although these newer GM trucks get great mileage. A friend recently replaced his '04 Chevy 1500 with a '16, and says the performance and mileage are night-and-day different. I think he's also netting upper-teens towing his BSP Vette to SCCA autocross events all over the country. His son had an Ecoboost Ford truck, and I think he sold it because loaded, it got worse mileage than a 4X4 extended cab F250. That, and his dad kept rubbing the mpg in. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

The Bilstiens are the way to go, no doubt about it. If you're going to keep the truck, get the yellow shocks on it. They were the first thing besides diesel we put on our truck. Heck, they may have been one of the last sales Arlen Strano made.

The throttle response and trans shifting is just a tune away, but GM will screw you then. We had our Tahoe tuned, and if they did nothing more than fix the 'torque management' the tune would have still been worth every dollar.

[trackbird]

The Bilstiens are the way to go, no doubt about it. If you're going to keep the truck, get the yellow shocks on it. They were the first thing besides diesel we put on our truck. Heck, they may have been one of the last sales Arlen Strano made.

My 2007 3500 Silverado had such awful shocks that I ordered Bilstiens from Sam at 600 miles and by 1,200 miles I had them installed. Best thing I did for that truck. At first there didn't seem to be shocks for this one, then the Bilstien 5100's appeared (nickel finish and some have two front perches in case you want to raise the front end) and now they show Bilstien 4600's for it (yellow bodies). Prices are about the same so I think I might go for nickel (it's pretty rust resistant). But I'm trying to find out about any internal or valving differences first.

Wow. I didn't realize it had been that long. I always loved talking to Arlyn. I think she became the adopted mom for hundreds of gearheads across the country. And she was always so proud of Sam, she always had a fun story about recent events and competitions.

[Steve91T]

I just installed the 5100's on my 99 F250 Powerstroke. They look awesome. More importantly they are an amazing truck. Very heavy duty, which I need to control 33's and two very heavy axles. don't get me wrong, it still rides like an empty dump truck, but it finally doesn't hop all over the place.

[trackbird]

I just installed the 5100's on my 99 F250 Powerstroke. They look awesome. More importantly they are an amazing truck. Very heavy duty, which I need to control 33's and two very heavy axles. don't get me wrong, it still rides like an empty dump truck, but it finally doesn't hop all over the place.

I installed new rear leaf springs and hangers on the back of a 2001 F250 in my driveway last weekend. I think the neighbors are still pissed about the noise. He added a leaf to them and ordered the upgraded springs. It's about 5" taller in the rear now. That was quite a job.

[slowTA]

Thanks for the update as I'm looking for a new(er?) truck. But I will say that the 5100s will rust. I put them on my 2005 Silverado in 2011 or 2012 and they're looking pretty rough already. Granted I never wash the truck and the rest of it is rusty, but it seems like you may think the coating is better than you think. I might be able to post current pics later today if you're interested.

[Steve91T]

I just installed the 5100's on my 99 F250 Powerstroke. They look awesome. More importantly they are an amazing truck. Very heavy duty, which I need to control 33's and two very heavy axles. don't get me wrong, it still rides like an empty dump truck, but it finally doesn't hop all over the place.

I installed new rear leaf springs and hangers on the back of a 2001 F250 in my driveway last weekend. I think the neighbors are still pissed about the noise. He added a leaf to them and ordered the upgraded springs. It's about 5" taller in the rear now. That was quite a job.

They are so heavy, aren't they? Someday when I find $2500 in the couch, I want to get the Firestone air bag kit. You remove all but the one main lead, install low psi air bags and long arms to control the axle. It has an onboard air compressor that automatically keeps the truck level by adjusting pressure. The ride when empty is apparently much much better. But you don't loose the ability to carry a ton of weight.

My friends call me when they need to move heavy things because their 1/2 tons can't do it. Pallets of bricks, 3 cubic yards of dirt or mulch. All weigh between 2 and 4 thousand pounds.

I love my truck but damn it's rough. It starts to smooth out with 500 lbs in the bed and really gets smooth with 1,000.

[Steve91T]

Thanks for the update as I'm looking for a new(er?) truck. But I will say that the 5100s will rust. I put them on my 2005 Silverado in 2011 or 2012 and they're looking pretty rough already. Granted I never wash the truck and the rest of it is rusty, but it seems like you may think the coating is better than you think. I might be able to post current pics later today if you're interested.

I've heard about that happening. I'm hoping that keeping them clean and the fact that the truck sees salted roads only a couple of times a year will help. Some people actually clear coat the bodies before installing. I may do that next time.

[trackbird]

They are so heavy, aren't they? Someday when I find $2500 in the couch, I want to get the Firestone air bag kit. You remove all but the one main lead, install low psi air bags and long arms to control the axle. It has an onboard air compressor that automatically keeps the truck level by adjusting pressure. The ride when empty is apparently much much better. But you don't loose the ability to carry a ton of weight.

My friends call me when they need to move heavy things because their 1/2 tons can't do it. Pallets of bricks, 3 cubic yards of dirt or mulch. All weigh between 2 and 4 thousand pounds.

I love my truck but damn it's rough. It starts to smooth out with 500 lbs in the bed and really gets smooth with 1,000.

They were 126 lbs per spring. Plus helpers and hardware. It was an adventure. (This is the same truck we put a diesel crate motor in about 8 years ago).

I miss my 3500. It's nice when they can just drop a pallet of brick pavers or a pallet of bags of gravel in the back and you drive off. However, my 3500 Chevy rode far better than that 2001 F250. My truck was stiff, but it was Cadillac comfortable compared to the Ford. It was also a ton lighter. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)


As for this truck, the Bilstien 5100's are cheaper than the 4600's (no clue why). So....since everything says they are internally the same, the 5100's will be my choice.

I received a response from Undercover about my tonneau. He's sending me out a repair kit with oversized screws. So I should at least get that fixed up soon.

[ar52kortlang]

I had a fully loaded 2014 z71 Tahoe and it did all right at best towing the Camaro.. not enough power. Picked up a 2016 Ram Rebel and its been doing a good job. Has factory air ride which makes hauling a trailer easier and been avg 16mpg..

[trackbird]

This truck makes more power than my 2007 6 liter did. I pulled up an exit ramp (where you turn and go up hill from the road under the freeway). I was doing 70 mph a ways before the merge zone while pulling the Camaro. I could have merged at 80 or close to it. I mean, I'll ALWAYS take more power for towing, but I don't feel like this is particularly underpowered. My 3500 made "good"power, but this makes more. And the two trucks weigh within 100 lbs of each other empty.

Which engine did you get in the dodge?

[rocky]

I have a 2011 Silverado now. I may have to try these shocks too. Any suggestions on exhaust?

[trackbird]

I have a 2011 Silverado now. I may have to try these shocks too. Any suggestions on exhaust?

I put Bilstien 4600 shocks on my 2007 3500 and it's the best thing I did to that truck (my friend put them on his F250 and felt the same way). It's worth the upgrade.

I've never done an exhaust on my trucks. I didn't want the noise/drone. I considered it and left the stock exhaust. Though I'm sure someone here has to have changed theirs.

[Steve91T]

On thedieselstop.com, they'll say the same thing about the shocks.


As far as the exhaust goes, do it once and do it right. Cherry Bombs

[rocky]

I am a little hesitant on exhaust because I do not want it to sound like a work boat like the rest of the trucks in my area. I hate trying to listen to sound clips. Hopefully I will hear one soon I like in person and I can ask the driver. Mine is a flex fuel truck. I have had it about a month. So far it tows ok with the 20' boat behind it. It is a little bouncy for my taste so I can guess it will be worse with the car. I'm not impressed with the e85 mileage at all but it does seem to run better with it

[Steve91T]

I really like magnaflow's exhaust. They are very free flowing but their mufflers have a great sound that's actually pretty mellow.

[trackbird]

I opened a "ticket" directly with Rhino Liner. They called the dealer who basically told me "it's not ready for a respray" and they offered to patch it with urethane again. I'm really irritated with this thing. When we removed the F250 springs it tore more holes in the Rhino Liner. I'm going to see if another dealer will just spray it again and see what they will charge me to do it. Or maybe I can strip it and have Line X redo it. I'm really cranky at this point.

[trackbird]

I sent Rhino Liner another email regarding my liner. I'm waiting to see if I hear back from them at all this time. I'm really getting tired of dealing with this issue and so far Rhino Liner hasn't been much help at all. I'll keep you posted.

[trackbird]

I sent Rhino Liner another email regarding my liner. I'm waiting to see if I hear back from them at all this time. I'm really getting tired of dealing with this issue and so far Rhino Liner hasn't been much help at all. I'll keep you posted.

I received word yesterday that the Corp office told the local dealer to "make him happy...whatever it takes...and respray the truck". So it's scheduled to go back next week. I guess we'll see how that goes. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[trackbird]

The Rhino Liner was resprayed. It's about 3-4 times as thick as it was. It looks much better and I think it should hold up this time.

Unfortunately, I was out on my friends farm two weeks ago and I noticed I seemed to have a slow leak in a tire. I took it to the tire shop and naturally the hole was in the sidewall and couldn't be patched. Apparently, I ran over a thorn from a locust tree. Awesome.

At 16k miles I have about half the tread left on my tires. Truck tires wear fast at first and more slowly as they get to the end. Since the truck has an AWD transfer case I shouldn't run mismatched tires. It's unfortunate, but I wound up putting 4 new tires on it today (being an adult sucks). It now has a shiny set of Goodyear Adventure A/T tires with Kevlar reinforcement. I hope I like them. I didn't hear any unusual noises on the trip home so they don't seem to be too loud (which is good) and they should be even better off road than the factory Wrangler SR-A tires. So much for buying more Camaro parts this month...(IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

These are the tires:

https://www.goodyear.com/en-US/tires/wrangl...rrain-adventure

[79T/A]

Other than the bedliner issues, is the truck treating you well in the first year of ownership? I'm going to be looking for some leftover '16s in the spring. I can't get myself to like the Ford trucks (disliked every ecoboost I've driven, 5.0 is a torqueless wonder, interior is too big for a person my size and I can't get comfortable), and the Ram is cool but I would NEVER buy a FCA product (my mom is on her second '16 grand Cherokee, giant POS lemon).

[trackbird]

Overall I like it. I don't love the transmission calibration, but it's decent. The fuel mileage is quite good for a brick. It towed the Camaro from Michigan quite well (with the exception of shocks that suck from the factory).

Honestly, buy one and just expect to put a set of Bilstiens on it. I was looking at doing just that soon, but my recent tire purchase put a dent in the fun money budget and it got cold finally so I'm not driving the camaro (not that I have it fixed yet) and I'm not working on the truck outside. It will get shocks this spring.

The bedliner was installed aftermarket for me, it wasn't a factory spray in. I had the original drop in removed and scrapped so I could have the Rhino Liner done. The issue was my local dealer and not the product. I think that's all behind me now.

If I couldn't fix the bedliner issues through Rhino Liner, I was actually going to trade this one on a 2016 or 2017. So I guess I'm admitting that "I'd buy another one". (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[79T/A]

That's good to hear. I would definitely get the factory sprayed liner, they do an excellent job. There is a small chance I might lease, but if I buy, small things like shocks and calibration don't bother me, I don't mind a little fine-tuning to make things exactly how I want them. Glad to hear it handles towing the Camaro well. I towed mine with a 14 F150 with the 5.0 and it did a miserable job.

[CrashTestDummy]

What Kevin says. Our '02 GMC 2500HD has been about the best new vehicle we've bought. We got the D/A version, but it's been a beast. All we've done is tires, which, as Kevin has experienced last way fewer miles than they should, and Bielstiens, which we ordered from Sam before the break-in period was up.

I just recently replaced the light lenses, because what we had we're showing their age, and because factory OEM pieces were still available, and stupid-cheap. Now, the truck looks brand new. That, and replacing the lights with LED, and they should last a while. Speaking of which, if you get one, immediately replace the DRL lights with LED. The reduced heat of LED bulbs will help keep the sockets from burning up.

A friend recently traded his Chevy 1500 for a new GMC 1500HD, and says the 5.3 with the new automatic is a great tow vehicle for his BSP Vette on an open trailer.

Call Sam, and have the shocks waiting for the truck to come home. Other than that, enjoy!

This post has been edited by CrashTestDummy: Nov 21 2016, 04:12 PM

[trackbird]

That's good to hear. I would definitely get the factory sprayed liner, they do an excellent job. There is a small chance I might lease, but if I buy, small things like shocks and calibration don't bother me, I don't mind a little fine-tuning to make things exactly how I want them. Glad to hear it handles towing the Camaro well. I towed mine with a 14 F150 with the 5.0 and it did a miserable job.

The shop that did my liner says they do the liners for the dealer up the street. I am not completely sure, but I got the feeling the spray in bedliner trucks are done locally after they arrive at the dealer. The problem isn't the job they do spraying it in, it's how thick they spray it. If it's thin, it just tears.

I had the Camaro on a 1750 lb open trailer (that car is likely 3,800 lbs, or close to it) and with the cruise set on 80 mph I was seeing 14.7-15.2 mpg. My 2007 single rear wheel 3500 didn't get that mileage unloaded and totally empty (6 liter, 4L80e/4.10 gears). I turned up a ramp (one of those where you cross under the freeway so the ramp is a fairly steep uphill) and hit the throttle, I merged into traffic (pulling the trailer) at 70+ mph. A weight distributing hitch might help it settle down a bit too (I'm used to having springs for a 3500 so that truck didn't care what I hung on the back of it).

My best 50 mile "rolling average" MPG is showing as 22.1. That was running 75, then 77 and finally 80 mph on cruise control in some traffic. That's absolutely unreal out of a 5600 lb brick.

I don't know if any vehicle is perfect...or maybe I'm just an extra picky pain in the ass but I'd buy another one of these. I think it's the best option in its class (if you don't want/need a 2500 or a diesel, etc). And it's been awesome in mud/mushy grass 6" deep, truly amazingly good.

Also, the Weathertech floor mats are amazing. Order those the day you pick it up. While you're at it, get the "no drill" mud flaps from them too. The mud flaps have kept most of the gunk off the paint and all the mud and crap I've thrown all over them has never done anything to even remotely damage or bend them. They are a great product and they use a very solid mounting design that doesn't require you to drill holes in the truck. And the mats cover the floor extremely well and protect the carpet. The rear mat goes from the front seat to the rear wall and side to side. The niece and nephews can track all the mud in there that they want, it's all covered (just keep the feet off the seats....lol).

[79T/A]

14 towing/ 22 average is impressive for sure. The '16 Grand Cherokee with the v6 barely manages to average 21mpg. Weight distributing hitch is a good idea, especially since I will need to purchase a new one with the truck. While a 2500 would be cool, I can't justify having one. I would choose better gas mileage and more comfortable ride over towing, since I would most likely only tow my car to track days a couple times a year. I live so close to a few tracks that it's not worth throwing the car on a trailer.

Re: factory bed liner. While I don't doubt your place does trucks off the lot for a local dealer, Chevy offers a factory sprayed liner that is incredibly high quality. It's very thick, and it's done by robot so the thickness is even, and the tape lines are perfect. I was at the CT auto show yesterday talking to a Chevy rep about it. At a $335 option, I think it's an absolute steal. I'm hoping there are plenty of leftover '16's next year, I would love to find a 1500 with the "custom" package (body colored bumpers and aluminum wheels). Time to start saving for that deposit.

+1 to the weathertech stuff. I won't let family members buy new cars without it.

[trackbird]

14 towing/ 22 average is impressive for sure. The '16 Grand Cherokee with the v6 barely manages to average 21mpg. Weight distributing hitch is a good idea, especially since I will need to purchase a new one with the truck. While a 2500 would be cool, I can't justify having one. I would choose better gas mileage and more comfortable ride over towing, since I would most likely only tow my car to track days a couple times a year. I live so close to a few tracks that it's not worth throwing the car on a trailer.

Re: factory bed liner. While I don't doubt your place does trucks off the lot for a local dealer, Chevy offers a factory sprayed liner that is incredibly high quality. It's very thick, and it's done by robot so the thickness is even, and the tape lines are perfect. I was at the CT auto show yesterday talking to a Chevy rep about it. At a $335 option, I think it's an absolute steal. I'm hoping there are plenty of leftover '16's next year, I would love to find a 1500 with the "custom" package (body colored bumpers and aluminum wheels). Time to start saving for that deposit.

+1 to the weathertech stuff. I won't let family members buy new cars without it.

My V6 Jeep liberty got 17 highway and 13-14 MPG in town. The truck gets much better mileage. I was a little shocked. And that "14 towing" was mostly "hauling butt". It wasn't just 65 mph. It was 75-80 on cruise (literally). I can't argue with that one bit.

I like the 18" wheels (and I prefer the non-Z71 wheels with the split spoke design). I've been in pretty deep mud/goo and never scratched the face of the wheel. The 20" wheels don't have the wider tire sidewall to "open up" the channel in the mud and it looks like you can scratch the face of the wheel if you get in the deep stuff (and there's less sidewall before the wheel is below ground level). If you don't plan to go off road, it really won't matter.

Interesting, I didn't know for sure if GM was doing them or taking them to the local guys to spray in the "factory liners". Some of the trucks on the lot looked very well done. The guys that did my 3500 were awesome. It was amazingly uniform and the cut lines were perfect. I was amazed they could do such a nice job. It looked like a robot did it (it was hand sprayed). My friend had one done by some guys in Zanesville, OH and it looks like my old one. The lines are perfect and the thickness is just like my old one. I was thinking about taking my truck to them to respray it. The new job they did on mine is much, much thicker, but they have tape under one little corner behind the cab and it's going to do the trick, it's not up to the standards set by these other shops that make "artwork".


My current work truck is a 2015 Silverado "WT" package with 5.3 liter/3.42 gears. It's a 2wd, regular cab long bed. I don't think the fuel economy gauge has ever been reset and it's showing an average of 19.8 mpg since it was new (it has 16k miles on it). It's a lot quicker than my 4x4 crew cab since it's likely 1,000 lbs lighter. I just wish the seat went back a bit. I'm only 5'11" and I could use another inch of seat travel in the standard cab.

[GCrites80s]

Wow these tire wear stories are a bummer. My Colorado is a 2wd regular cab and is nearing 70k miles with at least 10k to go on the original tires.

[trackbird]

Wow these tire wear stories are a bummer. My Colorado is a 2wd regular cab and is nearing 70k miles with at least 10k to go on the original tires.

That's pretty impressive. I put 60k mile tires on this time (it had 50k tires). Unfortunately it appears that my "in town" mileage has dropped 1-3 mpg. It also got cold at the same time so I can't nail down how much of it is the weather (cold weather tends to cause poor mileage too). I'll likely get some freeway miles on it over the holiday weekend and then I can see what my highway mileage looks like.

I almost put the stock tires back on it, but I wanted something a little better suited for mud at the farm and decided to try these. I hope I'm not sorry.

[CrashTestDummy]

I replaced the factory tires with the next size up on our GMC, and saw an immediate 1.5 MPG drop. I figured it was because I'm actually going faster than indicated, but when passing those stupid radar trailers, it seems we're pretty close. I guess it could be because there's more rotating mass to have to overcome, but still not certain.

The Tahoe was doing pretty good at around 17-18 MPG when we first got it, then it almost overnight dropped to the low-15s. I never have figured out why, in spite of cleaning the MAF and TB, replacing the plugs and wires, which I probably didn't need to do. I also dropped a K&N into the stock air filter box, so the filter was at least new, too.

I recently filled the tires to the cold pressure (they were about 2-4 psi low), and now the mileage is in the low-to-mid 16's. There's a bit more road noise, but I can live with that for more mileage. We also replaced the Tahoe tires with the next size up, but it didn't affect the mileage like it did on the diesel.

[GCrites80s]

I went from the stock Duelers to equivalent size Mud Terrains on my '97 Ram back in the early 2000s and immediately lost 3 MPG.

[79T/A]

Kevin, could be winter blend fuel since you are in the northern part of the country. I know my jeep drops around 2 mpg on that crap.

I don't know how you guys get that many miles out of tires. I guess I really live by the motto kill all tires.

[trackbird]

Kevin, could be winter blend fuel since you are in the northern part of the country. I know my jeep drops around 2 mpg on that crap.

I don't know how you guys get that many miles out of tires. I guess I really live by the motto kill all tires.

The temp was in the mid 20's today and I've been using the remote start. That's why it's really hard to tell exactly what the mileage is like and when it's cold the mileage seems to tank in all my vehicles. So, tires and cold weather got here together. I'll know more after I run around this weekend and I can report back.

[rocky]

Kevin, could be winter blend fuel since you are in the northern part of the country. I know my jeep drops around 2 mpg on that crap.

I don't know how you guys get that many miles out of tires. I guess I really live by the motto kill all tires.

I don't know how they do it either. I'm glad I am not the only tire killer here lol

[KCG]

Kevin, could be winter blend fuel since you are in the northern part of the country. I know my jeep drops around 2 mpg on that crap.

I don't know how you guys get that many miles out of tires. I guess I really live by the motto kill all tires.

The temp was in the mid 20's today and I've been using the remote start. That's why it's really hard to tell exactly what the mileage is like and when it's cold the mileage seems to tank in all my vehicles. So, tires and cold weather got here together. I'll know more after I run around this weekend and I can report back.

So how is your mileage doing?
I'm looking at a '14 1LT and a '15 LTZ, but I'd really like to see as close to 20 as I can.

Did you ever change the rear shocks?

Thanks

[slowTA]

My '16 LTZ averages high 18mpg (18.5 to 18.8) when I plug in the numbers after a full tank of gas. Most of that is rather hilly mileage, I have a higher mpg displayed on the way to work and a lower on the way home. After a long highway stint it showed 21+ (up to the hills). My truck has 5,300 miles, the worst tank was 16 with a few miles towing and the highest 50 mile average (coming down the mountains of eastern PA) shows 24.2 mpg.

[trackbird]

Kevin, could be winter blend fuel since you are in the northern part of the country. I know my jeep drops around 2 mpg on that crap.

I don't know how you guys get that many miles out of tires. I guess I really live by the motto kill all tires.

The temp was in the mid 20's today and I've been using the remote start. That's why it's really hard to tell exactly what the mileage is like and when it's cold the mileage seems to tank in all my vehicles. So, tires and cold weather got here together. I'll know more after I run around this weekend and I can report back.

So how is your mileage doing?
I'm looking at a '14 1LT and a '15 LTZ, but I'd really like to see as close to 20 as I can.

Did you ever change the rear shocks?

Thanks

I haven't done the shocks yet. I'm going to do them this spring (once it warms up outside). In the cold weather and using remote start and such....mileage is lower. However, it was 42 degrees today and we drove up to a place we like for breakfast (45-55 mph backroads) and then out to look at a house (more of the same) and my average went up from 12 mpg (based on the last 50 miles) to 18.6. We didn't go 50 miles total, so we were doing better than that, but the last of my 1 mile drive to work and using remote start were likely dragging it down a bit.

I've heard that the good cold air kits can be worth 1-2 mpg, but I haven't installed one yet. It's been on my list, but I've been busy with the Camaro and "winter".

[slowTA]

I've heard that the good cold air kits can be worth 1-2 mpg,

No... Who is saying that and about which kit?

[Steve91T]

I've heard that the good cold air kits can be worth 1-2 mpg,

No... Who is saying that and about which kit?

For diesels they are, because diesels are awesome.

[trackbird]

I've heard that the good cold air kits can be worth 1-2 mpg,

No... Who is saying that and about which kit?

A friend has been running them on his Tahoe and his previous Tahoe. I think he said he's seeing 1-2 mpg on average after installing the cold air kit. I believe he's using the S&B kits. I've been looking at adding one, but haven't yet. He is not running the newest engine though, so it could vary on the new trucks. but when I was reading reviews on that kit, I was seeing guys saying they were seeing similar gains.

[Honda93]

A friend of mine has a 2015 Silverado 1500 that has damage to the chrome bumper in the front. It looks like it's a $400-$500 part but I can't seem to find any schematics on how to replace it.

Any links?

[trackbird]

A friend of mine has a 2015 Silverado 1500 that has damage to the chrome bumper in the front. It looks like it's a $400-$500 part but I can't seem to find any schematics on how to replace it.

Any links?

This is the best I could find:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/1803...15-sierra-1500/

[Honda93]

A friend of mine has a 2015 Silverado 1500 that has damage to the chrome bumper in the front. It looks like it's a $400-$500 part but I can't seem to find any schematics on how to replace it.

Any links?

This is the best I could find:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/1803...15-sierra-1500/

Thanks!

[KCG]

Thought I'd chime back in if you don't mind...I ended up buying a 14 LT. Looks just like the pics on the first page.
Pulling from a few different post in this thread...I too am interested in fixing the off-idle response. I have EFI live and looked at Black Bear performance someone suggested. More to come on that, but I did discover this about air intakes on their site.

http://blackbearperformance.com/IntakeTestResults_2016.asp

Other than fixing the lack of throttle response, I'm not looking to increase HP either but a MPG increase I'll take. I'm just not sure these intakes are anywhere near worth what they want for them. They seem to like the AFE.

This post has been edited by KCG: Mar 25 2017, 02:17 AM

[CrashTestDummy]

Get the Air Raid MIT. IIRC, it's not terribly expensive, and netted the best inprovements per dollar. A drop-in K&N dry filter, and you're about as good as you can get. You can lurk on the various truck forums and watch for someone selling theirs cheap. That's what I did. They make the truck sound great at WOT, too. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

[trackbird]

I've been unhappy with the shocks on this truck since I bought it. I've been trying to convince myself they aren't that bad....but they really suck and they aren't getting any better. My wife gets car sick in vehicles that have "floppy" shocks with no rebound. She got sick in my Jeep, she got sick in the Camaro (until I got the Strano UMI coil overs) and she's been getting sick in the truck lately. So I decided to finally order some shocks and I waited long enough that the Bilstien 4600's are now available. I had Sam Strano send me a set and they came in a few days ago.

I wasn't sure what kind of a pain in the ass the installation would be, but it really wasn't too bad. I removed the three bolts from the top of the shock assembly and the two from the bottom, pushed the shocks off the lower control arm and lifted them out of the top. I saw lots of things saying to disconnect the upper ball joint but I'm not sure why. We looked at it and said "Gee, I think those will come out of the space in the upper arm"...and they did.

I grabbed my spring compressors (which barely fit the springs due to the coil diameter being so large) and wound the springs down. I have Craftsman compressors, and they are forged steel. The jack screws bowed considerably, but they didn't have any issues. I swapped things onto the new shocks and bolted it back together. The new upper nut for the front shocks is a "jet nut" (crimped locking nut) and it wouldn't go on with the impact. I had to use an adjustable wrench to hold the shock shaft and I wound the nut on with a ratcheting box end wrench. I sprayed the threads with WD40 before putting the nuts on and it seemed to help. That was probably the worst part of the install. Make sure you keep track of which stud (of the top three that attach it to the chassis) is closest to the wheel (I put a nut on that one so I could keep track). Swap the shocks and install. I used a floor jack with a 27mm deep well socket to push the shock up enough to get the lower mount on the LCA in the front and a pry bar to wiggle the bolt holes into place.

The rears took about 4 minutes per side with an impact gun and a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench. The top nut is captive and the bottom mount has a nut and bolt. Zap them off and swap the shocks. Easy.

I should have done this when I bought the truck. The floaty feeling is gone and it no longer bounces off the swaybar in corners. The stock shocks have virtually no rebound in them and the truck just wallows around corners. With 600 lbs or so in the bed, the back end just bounced down the freeway (with stock shocks). Towing the Camaro home (last year) was awful due to the lack of damping. The Bilstiens ride well, and it's a controlled ride (more like when you put Koni's on a Camaro). I really should have done this sooner. My 2007 got new shocks at 1,200 miles. I should have done the same this time.

If you have one of these trucks, order the Bilstien 4600 shocks. Just do it.

[CrashTestDummy]

Our '02 GMC still had paper tags on it when we replaced those gawd-awful shocks on it. The new OEMs were so bad that the front bump stops were shattered.

It's sad they've made replacing those things such a chore with the front struts. IIRC, the GMC was about a half-hour job for the whole set. I can't imagine what the shocks will take to replace on our Tahoe. Luckily, the PPV shocks/struts seem to be a bit better at damping than the more 'civillian' set.

[trackbird]

On my 2007, I never even lifted the truck. I turned the front wheels and did the fronts, rolled under it and did the rears. I had new shocks on it by 1,200 miles and it was really worth it. The 2015 shocks weren't quite as bad as the 2007, but they weren't really much better. I should have followed my instincts and just removed them when it came home, now I'm really sorry I waited this long.

[95zaaron]

Ive been debating this on my 2014 far too long as well! Nice to hear a solid opinion and looks like ill be getting a set as well

[trackbird]

Ive been debating this on my 2014 far too long as well! Nice to hear a solid opinion and looks like ill be getting a set as well

Yup. Don't wait any longer. I already wish I hadn't put it off this long.

A few notes:

The 3 bolt flange on the upper mount is not symmetrical. There is a certain way it goes in. Once the spring is released, it's tough/impossible to turn by hand. Once I put the first one together, I figured out which stud needed to be "out" (towards the tire) and put a nut on it. Then I put the spring compressors back on and spun the lower shock to be 90 degrees to it (so it would fit on the LCA). If you drop the shock assembly out and note which way that stud is positioned, you can swap them directly and reassemble. Or, put one of the nuts on it like I did. Then you can't screw it up.

Bilstien sends a bump stop cap that fits their shock. It's different than the OEM one, and you put it on the shock body and tap it on with a hammer. Make sure you put the "ring" (sits on the snap ring and supports the lower spring perch) and the lower perch on first. I wound down the spring compressors, zapped the top nut off the shock, pulled the shock out, swapped hardware and slid the new shock right into the assembly. Line up the bottom mount (90 degrees to the bolt with the nut on it) and tighten the nut on top of the shock. When you slide the new shock in place, the snap ring (already on the new shock) will pick up the bumpstop and everything drops right into place.

To get the lower shock mount in place, I used a deepwell socket on a floor jack to fit up between the LCA shock mount holes. That let me lift it a bit, push down on the wheel studs (by hand) and pop it in place. Line it up with a pry bar and put the bolts back in place.

And you don't reuse the factory "tinnerman nuts" from the original shocks. Bilstien sends 15mm (wrench size) nuts to bolt the new shocks to the lower control arms.

Oh, and a bunch of idiots online are claiming these shocks mount with the bodies up and the shafts (and rubber boots down). I can't imagine why you would do that? It will just result in the lower dust boot being full of water and junk. The OEM shocks were "right side up" and I put these in the same way. It makes no sense to place them upside down so the open ended dust boots collect dirt and water.... I installed them so the decals were right side up. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[trackbird]

Other than fixing the lack of throttle response, I'm not looking to increase HP either but a MPG increase I'll take. I'm just not sure these intakes are anywhere near worth what they want for them. They seem to like the AFE.

I found one more possible option for the throttle response. The thing I like about this is that you don't have to flash the computer. I'm "assuming" they programmed a more linear throttle curve into it (basically turning the factory "slow opening" into more normal operation, but I'm not 100% sure that's true). I like that you can remove it for service and such (if you wish). The computer apparently keeps track of how many times it has been flashed, so that could be a bigger warranty issue (and that's why I haven't tuned mine yet). If this really works, it might be a good option.

Does anybody want to donate to the "test a throttle body fund"? lol. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

http://www.jegs.com/p/JET-Performance/JET-...944748/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/JET-Performance/561/76108/10002/-1

Installation instructions:

https://c1.rt-static.com/shared/pdf/manufac...nstructions.pdf


And after driving the truck more....DO THE SHOCKS! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[slowTA]

I'm wondering how much of a difference there is in the Z71 vs. the base model shocks. I hear many people complaining about the shocks but I don't really find them annoying and I had 5100s on my previous truck. Either the Ranchos are better or I just don't get it!

[trackbird]

I'm wondering how much of a difference there is in the Z71 vs. the base model shocks. I hear many people complaining about the shocks but I don't really find them annoying and I had 5100s on my previous truck. Either the Ranchos are better or I just don't get it!

I saw a few guys in forums who dumped the Ranchos and pronounced the Bilstiens much better. And there was one guy who had Rancho's and put 5100's for a day (I did 4600 shocks and they seem to be different...potentially) and put something else on his truck the following day and was bitching about the "waste of $640" or whatever he spent to put the Bilstiens on for a few hours. So it's hard to tell without driving them.

I drove a Z71 when I first started looking, but I can't remember how the shocks felt on it. At least not in any detail.

The stock GM shocks have virtually no rebound in them and minimal compression. I think I mentioned that we had 3 people in the cab, a T56, a 20ton shop press, a pair of snow tires and wheels off of a friends 2004 half ton and some "stuff" (washer fluid, things he removed from his truck to take it to service) in the bed and the back end just cycled up and down the entire way to drop off the contents of the bed. It just did a slow "pogo" down the freeway, like waves rolling in. Boing, boing, boing......

The stock shocks on mine made the factory F-body DeCarbon shocks look like Konis....they were even worse than the OEM F-body shocks by a decent margin.

Today I noticed that when I put the transmission in gear, the body no longer rocks back and fourth from the "jolt" of it dropping into gear....if that tells you something. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[KCG]

Did you ever find any info on the difference between the 4600 & 5100?....thought I read earlier you were considering 5100"s

This post has been edited by KCG: Apr 11 2017, 08:00 PM

[trackbird]

Did you ever find any info on the difference between the 4600 & 5100?....thought I read earlier you were considering 5100"s

The 5100s have multiple front spring perch locations to change the front ride height. Then you can just put a block in the rear to lift the truck. However, there has been much debate about how they ride and if they ride better lifted or stock height, etc. And since I didn't manage to validate any of this and I was not planning to lift the truck, I did the 4600 shocks and they are what I used before. Originally the 5100 shocks were all that was available. Now we have options....but I don't know a lot about the differences.

[KCG]

Did you ever find any info on the difference between the 4600 & 5100?....thought I read earlier you were considering 5100"s

The 5100s have multiple front spring perch locations to change the front ride height. Then you can just put a block in the rear to lift the truck. However, there has been much debate about how they ride and if they ride better lifted or stock height, etc. And since I didn't manage to validate any of this and I was not planning to lift the truck, I did the 4600 shocks and they are what I used before. Originally the 5100 shocks were all that was available. Now we have options....but I don't know a lot about the differences.

ok, not sure where I'm going with mine yet. I wouldn't mind leveling it a touch but it's the wifes DD so it can't be harsh.

That said, my son put the adjustable 5100's on his '12 Sierra at the highest position. I didn't drive it that much before hand but I will say it is a little stiffer than before and has no problem with control now. His ride is not at all harsh, just stiffer. Some of it I assume comes from the heavier lug tire he put on. Don't know what they are off the top of my head.
We towed his 2nd gen to the Cam Challenge in Peru last year and I was really impressed how it handled that trip for a 1/2 ton crew cab loaded with tools, jack, parts, etc...we're in Md.