[SS Performance]

Hi all, I'm new to this site. I have been involved in racing and the performance world for many years. However I have never built a car for road racing.

I'm not familiar with all the terms used so be patient with my lack of knowledge.

I recently purchased a 02 Camaro Z28 with no drive train or suspension, no K-member, a-arms, struts, rack, rear end, panhard bar, or sway bars.

So I have a blank sheet of paper.

My intent is to build a car for open road racing, Silver State, Big Bend, Sand Hills, etc. And I would love to do Pike's Peak.

I have purchased some parts already, and I have some parts left from other projects.

I Know for SOLO or track days horse power is not always a benefit but for open road it should be helpful (I think not sure).

Anyway here is what I have, 02 Camaro with Chrome moly 8 point cage. Should I take it out and switch to mild steel? I have never been a fan of chrome moly.
The cage is not fully welded yet so removal would be easy.

Moser 9-inch with back brace, 35 spline axels, wave trac dif, 3.90 gears adjustable torque arm.

Wilwood 13inch brakes 6 piston front 4 piston rear.

4L80E trans

Choice of several possible engines LS1, LQ4, LS2 (resleeved to 4.155 bore)

Bilstein race shocks w/ 1000# front and 400# rear springs and rear adjusters (purchased used from a member here)

I'm not a fan of aftermarket K-members so I intend to locate a stock one.

Since I don't have a panhard bar I was thinking about going with a watt's link.

So here are my questions;

Should I go with stock A-arms or aftermarket? If aftermarket who's and why?

What rack and power steering pump?

What sway bars?

What size wheels? I was thinking about the ZO6 18X10.5

What size & type of tires?

I know it's a ton of questions and hope I didn't over whelm or break any site rules.

Thanks
Craig

[CrashTestDummy]

If you're just looking to have fun with a car, and fun with a build, go for the list you have. If you want to be competitive in some racing series, then you really need to pick your venue and review the rules. You can quickly add the wrong mod and be uncompetitive with your budget build. Some series may also have specific requirements for the roll cage that probably aren't addressed with a 8-point.

I'd also think twice about the 4L80 with paddle shifters in a budget build, unless you really want the 'gee whiz' factor. I bet after the trans build, manual valve body and paddle shifter fab, you've bought a built T56 and clutch configuration with money to spare. I'm not trying to talk you out of an auto, we drive one in our Firebird and reallly enjoy it, just the particular choice of transmissions/shifters.

On paper that looks like a fun C Prepared solo car, or DE car. Don't forget to post up pictures of the WIP. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)