[SS Performance]

Hi all, I'm new to this site. I have been involved in racing and the performance world for many years. However I have never built a car for road racing.

I'm not familiar with all the terms used so be patient with my lack of knowledge.

I recently purchased a 02 Camaro Z28 with no drive train or suspension, no K-member, a-arms, struts, rack, rear end, panhard bar, or sway bars.

So I have a blank sheet of paper.

My intent is to build a car for open road racing, Silver State, Big Bend, Sand Hills, etc. And I would love to do Pike's Peak.

I have purchased some parts already, and I have some parts left from other projects.

I Know for SOLO or track days horse power is not always a benefit but for open road it should be helpful (I think not sure).

Anyway here is what I have, 02 Camaro with Chrome moly 8 point cage. Should I take it out and switch to mild steel? I have never been a fan of chrome moly.
The cage is not fully welded yet so removal would be easy.

Moser 9-inch with back brace, 35 spline axels, wave trac dif, 3.90 gears adjustable torque arm.

Wilwood 13inch brakes 6 piston front 4 piston rear.

4L80E trans

Choice of several possible engines LS1, LQ4, LS2 (resleeved to 4.155 bore)

Bilstein race shocks w/ 1000# front and 400# rear springs and rear adjusters (purchased used from a member here)

I'm not a fan of aftermarket K-members so I intend to locate a stock one.

Since I don't have a panhard bar I was thinking about going with a watt's link.

So here are my questions;

Should I go with stock A-arms or aftermarket? If aftermarket who's and why?

What rack and power steering pump?

What sway bars?

What size wheels? I was thinking about the ZO6 18X10.5

What size & type of tires?

I know it's a ton of questions and hope I didn't over whelm or break any site rules.

Thanks
Craig

[Racerdad916]

Nape and Kevin are dead on.... fast for cheap can be done if you are patient... the 12 bolt is faster but the 9" is stronger. If you have to use an Auto, a 4L60 can be built to live with 500rwhp in a non-drag race world. The key to "fast for cheap" is understanding "mechanical sympathy", meaning you understand where the weak points of the cars are and drive accordingly (i.e no high RPM launches etc) I'm making big HP on stock axles and a 7.5 28 spline diff. The key is how you drive. I don't stand on it unless the car is already moving to lower driveline shock. I built mine from a shell, and, I don't think I'd do it again, unless I already had something to flog on. 5 years is a long time to wait to have a fun car, but it can be done. The junk yards can be a great source for cheap parts, as well as ebay and craigslist. You just need to know what to look for... if you have questions, just ask. The members here are a wealth of knowledge, and many are racers....