[Steve91T]

Hey guys. I have some questions about oil coolers.

How do I plum to the engine? I'm using a sandwich adapter for oil pressure and temp. There are two unused ports in that adapter. Can I use those for the oil cooler? One of those ports would be for the supply, but where does the return go? It's an LT1 with a Moroso pan.

My other question is are there any problems with mounting the cooler above the engine in the hood scoop? I'm planning on securin the lines to the bottom of the hood and run them down the drivers side hinge then to the engine. I can't imagine there would be any problems with the location, but I thought I'd ask in case you guys know something I don't.

I'm not going to run a thermostat for the oil. I'm just going to tape the back side of the cooler for street use.

[nape]

If you're going to replace the engine later this year anyway, forget the oil cooler.

If you're worried about the oil breaking down, just change it more often and/or run a thicker oil.

I've had high temp problems on my AI car for a long time due to the radiator and inlet being too small. By high, I've see 260-270* WATER temp from May-Sept events. I don't run an oil temp gauge, but I'm assuming it would be pegged.

Guess what? Main bearings always look good because I change the oil and filter often. If the water gets to the 260* range, the oil only gets run for that weekend. Everything gets so hot that it starts melting the cam bearings, but they still last two seasons. Oil is Valvoline VR1 20w50.

This post has been edited by nape: Feb 28 2016, 08:23 PM

[Steve91T]

If you're going to replace the engine later this year anyway, forget the oil cooler.

If you're worried about the oil breaking down, just change it more often and/or run a thicker oil.

I've had high temp problems on my AI car for a long time due to the radiator and inlet being too small. By high, I've see 260-270* WATER temp from May-Sept events. I don't run an oil temp gauge, but I'm assuming it would be pegged.

Guess what? Main bearings always look good because I change the oil and filter often. If the water gets to the 260* range, the oil only gets run for that weekend. Everything gets so hot that it starts melting the cam bearings, but they still last two seasons. Oil is Valvoline VR1 20w50.

Well what I'm afraid of is I'm running a stock Y pipe that I'm pretty sure is touching my canton oil pan. Just running around town I'll see 220 degrees. I'm afraid because of that, my oil temp will be way high. But if you had no problems with the temps you saw, maybe I will be fine. I was planning on running Rotella synthetic 5w-40. I use that in my diesel, boat and M3. It's a great oil.

[nape]

Well what I'm afraid of is I'm running a stock Y pipe that I'm pretty sure is touching my canton oil pan. Just running around town I'll see 220 degrees. I'm afraid because of that, my oil temp will be way high. But if you had no problems with the temps you saw, maybe I will be fine. I was planning on running Rotella synthetic 5w-40. I use that in my diesel, boat and M3. It's a great oil.

K.I.S.S.

Change the oil after every weekend if you see elevated oil temps. Figure the cost of oil + filter vs. oil cooler + plumbing (and replacing all of it if the engine happens to send shrapnel through it).

Your y-pipe pre-heater is good on the street if it gets the oil up to 220 degrees and cook off the condensation in the oil. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)