[trackbird]

I've been driving a Jeep Liberty for a couple years as my daily driver (and I've hated virtually every minute of it). Long story short, a 2105 Silverado crew cab followed me home this weekend (just in time for fireworks, my wife and I are both licensed "Exhibitors Assistants" (pyro techs) for professional shows). Within 12 hours of signing paperwork, we were hauling stuff around the site and driving through in 6" of soft muddy grass (oops). It's a truck, right?

I need a front license plate bracket. My truck came from out of state and what they gave me requires drilling holes in the bumper (I'd rather not due to rust concerns). Is there anything like the SLP bracket for the 4th gens that fits the new trucks?

I'm looking for a roll up (semi rigid/secure) tonneau cover.

Throttle response sucks, so I'm going to need a programmer to fix the throttle feel. I'm not worried about power (it makes enough for now), but the throttle could use some help. It opens really slow and then you start stabbing it to get it to move. I'm not a fan.

Has anybody fixed any of these issues? Tips, tricks or recommended parts?

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[95zaaron]

Ive been debating this on my 2014 far too long as well! Nice to hear a solid opinion and looks like ill be getting a set as well

[trackbird]

Ive been debating this on my 2014 far too long as well! Nice to hear a solid opinion and looks like ill be getting a set as well

Yup. Don't wait any longer. I already wish I hadn't put it off this long.

A few notes:

The 3 bolt flange on the upper mount is not symmetrical. There is a certain way it goes in. Once the spring is released, it's tough/impossible to turn by hand. Once I put the first one together, I figured out which stud needed to be "out" (towards the tire) and put a nut on it. Then I put the spring compressors back on and spun the lower shock to be 90 degrees to it (so it would fit on the LCA). If you drop the shock assembly out and note which way that stud is positioned, you can swap them directly and reassemble. Or, put one of the nuts on it like I did. Then you can't screw it up.

Bilstien sends a bump stop cap that fits their shock. It's different than the OEM one, and you put it on the shock body and tap it on with a hammer. Make sure you put the "ring" (sits on the snap ring and supports the lower spring perch) and the lower perch on first. I wound down the spring compressors, zapped the top nut off the shock, pulled the shock out, swapped hardware and slid the new shock right into the assembly. Line up the bottom mount (90 degrees to the bolt with the nut on it) and tighten the nut on top of the shock. When you slide the new shock in place, the snap ring (already on the new shock) will pick up the bumpstop and everything drops right into place.

To get the lower shock mount in place, I used a deepwell socket on a floor jack to fit up between the LCA shock mount holes. That let me lift it a bit, push down on the wheel studs (by hand) and pop it in place. Line it up with a pry bar and put the bolts back in place.

And you don't reuse the factory "tinnerman nuts" from the original shocks. Bilstien sends 15mm (wrench size) nuts to bolt the new shocks to the lower control arms.

Oh, and a bunch of idiots online are claiming these shocks mount with the bodies up and the shafts (and rubber boots down). I can't imagine why you would do that? It will just result in the lower dust boot being full of water and junk. The OEM shocks were "right side up" and I put these in the same way. It makes no sense to place them upside down so the open ended dust boots collect dirt and water.... I installed them so the decals were right side up. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)