[Steve91T]

I'm mostly kidding but here's why I ask. My dad noticed his 335d was a little sluggish. He put some Lucas fuel injector cleaner in it and it made a noticeable difference. My E36 M3 has 210,000 miles on it and for a while now it ran like crap until fully warmed up. It would drop a cylinder or something, but since it ran like a champ when at operating temp, it didn't bother me very much. Anyway, after only 40 miles with Lucas in the tank, it doesn't do it anymore. Same with my boat and even my 7.3 Powerstroke is running better.

So my 97 SS has a junkyard LT1 in it. It only has 116,000 miles on it but it's been sitting for years. I recently got the car on the road. It has great oil pressure, doesn't smoke, but runs very rough. The fuel injector cleaner is helping but I think there's a compression problem. Is there anything on the shelves that can help with that? I know there are products that say they can, but anything that actually works like the fuel injector cleaner? My goals for this engine is to do a few track days with it and sometime next year swap an LS1 into it. I just need to get by for about a year or so. I only paid $380 for engine so I'm not too worried about it.

[dailydriver]

^^^Thanks for the review! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

I have a can of this I plan to use before changing to my summer OCI, since I suspect some 'carbon knock' in my LS1. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Honda93]

Just out of curiosity... Would Marvel Mystery Oil or a TC-W3 2-Stroke oil help a sticking check valve on the fuel pump assembly? Use 3 oz. per 15 gallons.

The reason I ask is as follows...

Given that funding has still got me waiting on the fuel pump replacement, the car runs fine <*knocks wood*> after priming the fuel pump twice and has been as such since summer when I first posted to this fine online community. It just loses pressure at rest.

With just 69K on the original pump, could the above products help "free up" or "clean up" any gumming or whatever and lubricate components on the fuel pump assembly - especially since we use 10% ethanol which was not the case when these units were designed and built - thereby resolving my issue without the need to replace the pump / cutting the trap door?

It's a longshot, I know, but it'd be mega if it worked. I also noticed these matters started after I changed the fuel cap to something other than OEM. Hmmmm.....

This post has been edited by Honda93: Dec 10 2017, 03:23 AM