![]() |
|
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
![]()
Post
#21
|
|
Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 321 Joined: 15-November 04 From: Canada Member No.: 542 ![]() |
Lift the valve covers. If it was over revved, like a miss where you went down instead of up. I did it stock and bent 3 push rods. Almost as loud as yours.
A really easy cheap fix if that is all that bent. Also our cars will spit roller bearings out of the rockers, with a similar sound. This post has been edited by Rampant: Jul 27 2016, 12:51 AM |
|
|
![]()
Post
#22
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
I haven't even looked through all the boxes yet. Everything from new side mirrors, parking brake cables, lever, air vents, air filter, spark plugs, exhaust manifold gaskets....it just keeps going.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/8A0480A0-AF75-4289-9E58-0EF53B30CA50.jpg) (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/3D4A4D66-50A3-4BBE-B06A-E20263C07593.jpg) (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/E169DED9-2D3E-4672-BC32-15B8D57DF00E.jpg) (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/47F2699A-0719-4F5E-9A6C-6BEFB5143664.jpg) Now that I moved all the parts to the walk out crawl space, I'm going to pull the valve cover and see what I see. |
|
|
![]()
Post
#23
|
|
FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
I'm thinking I really should have bought that car. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
|
|
|
![]()
Post
#24
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
I'm thinking I really should have bought that car. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Funny, I was just think I'm really glad you didn't (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
|
|
![]()
Post
#25
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
|
|
|
![]()
Post
#26
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
Well there's you're problem....
https://youtu.be/Ap1lFS98O1w (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/FA5C16C8-FB10-4389-9D7B-378E10890B68.jpg) (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/2CEFA43C-896E-4BD5-9143-09AACB6F7507.jpg) (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/A1BFD1D2-F0C1-4795-B057-F8C4F8D7B724.jpg) Pushrods is not bent and the bolt holding the rocker was tight, so that points to the lifter. Head is coming off. This post has been edited by Steve91T: Jul 28 2016, 08:33 PM |
|
|
![]()
Post
#27
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,693 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Casselberry FL Member No.: 206 ![]() |
Years ago I had an aggressive LS1 cam (227/235 110+2 .650/.650 valve lift on Comp LSK lobes) using Caddy lifters, OEM lifter trays and Manton 3/8" pushrods. Eventually I had a noise and found that the tray had cracked and the lifter had rotated and become seized in the bore. It's been so long I don't know how similar my noise was to yours.
This post has been edited by JimMueller: Jul 28 2016, 08:40 PM |
|
|
![]()
Post
#28
|
|
Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 919 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Northern NY Member No.: 66 ![]() |
Steve? Does it have that length push-rods on all Cylinders?? Kinda remember having to use a 7.425. Stock cam?
Jim my 13 Tahoe just had a DOD lifter rotate just cruising down the road!!! This post has been edited by Ojustracing: Jul 28 2016, 08:44 PM |
|
|
![]()
Post
#29
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,693 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Casselberry FL Member No.: 206 ![]() |
I remember a stock valve train LS1 using 7.400" pushrods, but the LS6 variants would need to be ~.030" longer to account for the slightly smaller base circle.
Stock Camshaft Numbers - Base Circle Dia.: '97-'04 LS1 = 19.7mm / 0.776" '01 LS6 = 19.3mm / 0.760" '02 -'04 LS6 = 19.0mm / 0.748 |
|
|
![]()
Post
#30
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
Intake manifold is off.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/4A6F1253-438C-4267-8C0A-4181498E1E20.jpg) (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/56D57F7C-AC08-4580-8EA4-53101E8BB08E.jpg) (IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/Steve91T/Camaro/83A8BB4C-8A23-496E-B290-6A3DBF1BF421.jpg) |
|
|
![]()
Post
#31
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,693 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Casselberry FL Member No.: 206 ![]() |
Not sure what you might be willing to upgrade while you're taking things apart. That looks like the original LS1 valley cover, you might want to look into upgrading it to the LS6 cover (and new style of coolant crossover lines) if you can find the parts. You'll need to grind inside the valley to make it fit, though. Also put a dam of RTV around the top of the knock sensor holes to prevent water intrusion... lookup TSB #02-06-04-023. The LS6 intake manifold is a nice value upgrade over the LS1 unit if you don't already have one (and can find one). The intake ports are surprisingly clean.
Oh, and it's been 5 hours, that PS head should already be off (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
|
|
![]()
Post
#32
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
Not sure what you might be willing to upgrade while you're taking things apart. That looks like the original LS1 valley cover, you might want to look into upgrading it to the LS6 cover (and new style of coolant crossover lines) if you can find the parts. You'll need to grind inside the valley to make it fit, though. Also put a dam of RTV around the top of the knock sensor holes to prevent water intrusion... lookup TSB #02-06-04-023. The LS6 intake manifold is a nice value upgrade over the LS1 unit if you don't already have one (and can find one). The intake ports are surprisingly clean. Oh, and it's been 5 hours, that PS head should already be off (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Ha I gave up for the night. I have the rockers off and pushrods out and placed in a Cheerios box to keep them in order. Just have to pull the manifold and then the head tomorrow. I think the plan is to just get the thing running right now and figure out the grand plan later. For all I know it could have a bottom end problem or something. So that being said, is there anything wrong with just replacing the passenger side lifters? If my dad does want the car, I know a cam is in his future, so we'd probably upgrade to the ls6 manifold and replace the other lifters at that time. It's so tempting to take that first step off the slippery slope, but I really want to just get it fixed and enjoy it for as little money as possible right now, even if it causes me more effort down the road. Plus I've never driven a stock LS1, so it'd cool to experience that. |
|
|
![]()
Post
#33
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,693 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Casselberry FL Member No.: 206 ![]() |
You could probably get away with just replacing the PS lifters, but I'd try to stick with the same model lifters unless you want to risk having to use different length pushrods on the PS to get the correct preload. I doubt you'll find a half set of lifters, though, so you'll probably have to eat the cost of a whole set of new lifters now even though you only choose to replace half.
You're right, though, see what you must replace before looking at optional parts. |
|
|
![]()
Post
#34
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
If I replace the right side with OEM lifters, they should be the same as the original lifters, correct? The new replacement lifters are LS7 lifters, which are just a better design.
Like I said, I just want to fix what's broke then see what I have. I'm going to buy all 16, but just replace all the right side lifters while the head is off. Getting my parts list together. I'll update this as I go. Lifters http://www.texas-speed.com/p-309-gmdelphi-...le-lifters.aspx Head gaskets https://m.summitracing.com/cart/add/NAL-12498544 GM head bolts (1 side) https://m.summitracing.com/search?keyword=12498545 Trays https://m.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12595365 This post has been edited by Steve91T: Jul 29 2016, 04:48 PM |
|
|
![]()
Post
#35
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 1,693 Joined: 15-February 04 From: Casselberry FL Member No.: 206 ![]() |
LS7 lifters are the OEM replacement for the LS1 lifters. Assuming you currently have LS1 lifters, then they should be a direct swap without having to change pushrods. The lifter trays (12595365) are inexpensive and are considered something to always replace when swapping lifters, also.
Same lifters currently on sale here: http://www.texas-speed.com/p-309-gmdelphi-...le-lifters.aspx? |
|
|
![]()
Post
#36
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
LS7 lifters are the OEM replacement for the LS1 lifters. Assuming you currently have LS1 lifters, then they should be a direct swap without having to change pushrods. The lifter trays (12595365) are inexpensive and are considered something to always replace when swapping lifters, also. Same lifters currently on sale here: http://www.texas-speed.com/p-309-gmdelphi-...le-lifters.aspx? Oh wow thank you!!! |
|
|
![]()
Post
#37
|
|
FRRAX Owner/Admin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 15,432 Joined: 13-February 04 From: Ohio Member No.: 196 ![]() |
The lifter trays (12595365) are inexpensive and are considered something to always replace when swapping lifters, also. I was just coming in to add that same thing. You have to replace them with the head off. This shouldn't be an issue since you're replacing the lifter anyway. |
|
|
![]()
Post
#38
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
The lifter trays (12595365) are inexpensive and are considered something to always replace when swapping lifters, also. I was just coming in to add that same thing. You have to replace them with the head off. This shouldn't be an issue since you're replacing the lifter anyway. I added 4 of them from summit. So lifters, trays, head bolts and head gaskets. Anything else I'm missing? |
|
|
![]()
Post
#39
|
|
Advanced Member ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 919 Joined: 30-December 03 From: Northern NY Member No.: 66 ![]() |
I know your trying to keep it simple. You might want to get the head off first. I would suspect possible cam damage from that lifter flopping around..
|
|
|
![]()
Post
#40
|
|
Experienced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Advanced Members Posts: 2,038 Joined: 3-March 10 From: Huntersville, NC Member No.: 9,105 ![]() |
|
|
|
![]() ![]() |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 16th May 2025 - 10:38 PM |