Yea, if the bottle jack dies...I can get one of those. Besides, they make one that's air actuated as well as using a pump handle. I figure I can smash "everything" with one of those. All I need is a reason to upgrade.

Picked up a Miller 211 with a cart in that too

Years ago a buddy of mine and I went to pick up my Marshall amp head (no speakers) in my IROC from a music store in Delaware, OH. It was new, and the original box made it way bigger. Then we stopped at Jeg's and picked up a Hooker cat-back for his 4th gen, again in its giant box. We then drove 100 miles to Portsmouth with our faces an inch from the windshield. Press in a Miata tops that though for sure. Of course, the 3rd World has us all beat many times over.

Thanks Kevin. Let me know when you do. I'm busy through next week and I will be in akron next weekend for work. Then I'm on vacation and I hope to get something done other than house/yard work

Oddly the other synchro boxes don't match the ones that arrived today. I looked at the Tick performance website and they say the brand is "Tremec" on their synchros. I'll have to post pics of the boxes. I don't believe that to be true. Though I'll know more when we match up the numbers printed/etched in the synchros....maybe?

I've now purchased enough parts to build 2.5 transmissions, I better at least get this one together before my wife kills me. Each warm day she looks at me and says "Gee, I wish we had a convertible". I'm kinda slow, but I can take a hint.

Some additional notes:

The RAM remote bleeder assembly:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ram-78510

Does NOT contain the correct fittings to fit an OEM or a Ram slave cylinder. And since the Ram slave appears to be an overpriced OEM slave, that's basically saying the same thing twice. I set up a return at Summit Racing, they want $9.00 to print a label to send it back (and don't seem to want you to just ship it yourself). I paid $9 to get it to me. It's a $32 part and I'm going to eat $18 in freight. I need to call them. When I worked at Jegs, if something didn't fit, we'd usually eat the freight and cover the return too.

I also spoke to Tick performance. They ship and use OE Tremec and aftermarket synchros interchangeably (they build their gearboxes with either one as well...whatever they have in stock at the time). I paid "full Tremec" prices for them, but I got aftermarket parts. I'll update this early next week after I get them out and talk to Tick again. So far I'm getting a little ticked off.

Guess it's a good thing I picked the aftermarket ones at the gear box. I haven't ordered anything yet. I don't like the idea of tick using aftermarket parts and charging the "premium" tremenc price. I would be a little ticked too. I'm going to do the build myself. I'm going to get that press and get to it soon

So, the weekly T56 rebuild happened on Saturday. If we keep this up, we'll have this down to a science in no time. The 20 ton press made things much easier, but I'm already lazy from having to pump the handle for "days". I'm looking at upgrading to the air over hydraulic 20 ton bottle jack that harbor freight has on sale. We can use air to run it down until it touches and then the handle to pump it through. Using the handle allows you to feel when things get tight. I fear that I'd just smash things using air for the "delicate" work (if anything done with a 20 ton press is delicate). Either way, we should have bought one of these years ago.

Considering the ridiculous price of the tick rebuilds, "whatever they have in stock" is completely unacceptable. There is a large price difference between the tremec and aftermarket parts.

Tick has agreed to take my parts back and I believe they are going to update the website. So far I'm pleased with their customer service. I'll let you know how it goes once it's final.

I figured this really applies to both of the above posts.

The aftermarket REM polished synchros were the problem. The 3/4 synchro was super tight. We wiggled it around a bit and decided it was ok...it wasn't. Once I had them both in my hands, I tried to swap the hub from one into the shell of the other....the parts don't interchange. So it's not an exact copy of the OEM synchro, it's like a company built their own synchros for the T56. Tick drop shipped my other parts from the Gearbox. So, I'm assuming these are the synchros you can buy from the Gearbox as aftermarket synchros.

The oem Tremec 4th gear synchro was slightly tight...but useable. Then I had an idea. The slider is what wears on a synchro, the hub is either good....or broken. So, I grabbed the original hub for my 3/4 synchro out of the box of old parts and it was a better/looser fit with the new synchro slider that came with the new Tremec synchro. So we set it up that way and put the gearbox back together.

We threw it in last night and took it for a drive. The trans shifts great and was getting better as I drove it and things wore in a bit. The clutch is known to chatter until it breaks in and it was doing a bit of that at first. By the time we were finished, it let me leave a few lights without the chatter. I expect it to come back though. It took about 500 miles for my last centerforce/fidanza combo to break in and quit giving me the occasional bit of clutch chatter.

At this point, I'm still close enough that I should have probably purchased a T56 magnum or similar. My trans was only barely notchy (if at all...T56's aren't exactly the smoothest transmissions) and I could have likely sold it for $1500. I have a "billion" dollars in parts, plus a press (not that I mind owning a press). If I took the nearly $2k that I have in pieces and tools and the used value of my current trans....I think I could have just ordered a T56 Magnum (depending if I need anything to make it fit, that might be the only hiccup) and dropped it in. But...I didn't need all that. And this trans has the full stage 2 upgrade, and upgraded shift fork pads and billet synchro keys in all gears. It should be up to anything I'm going to throw at it.

Now I have a radiator, cooling system bits and a pile of front end parts that still need to go on this thing as well as some new brakes.

So what you are saying is send it to Tick or buy another versus rebuilding yourself? I have always heard good thing about Tick and their customer service.

I'm mostly saying to avoid the aftermarket synchros. Tick told me they often have to bead blast the inside of the aftermarket synchros to get them to slide freely (it was suggested that I try that on mine). And I went a bit farther. Most of the Stage 2 rebuilds only do brass pads on the 1/2 and 3/4 forks, same for the billet keys and such. I did them on all gears. I went beyond most of the Stage 2 rebuilds you see advertised. It's glorious overkill, but I only state that to say that I could have saved some money.

1/2 and 3/4 synchros will cost you about $270, a blocker ring kit is $299-325 (depending who you get it from). The billet keys are about $50 per set (you'll need 4 sets if you do reverse too). The steel 3/4 shift fork is about $70 now. And the brass shift fork pads are $19-ish per shift fork (4 sets). If you stick to that, it's not terribly expensive and you should do it yourself. I bought two sets of synchros and two of the blocker ring kits, etc and so on. I'm working on getting some of that returned.

Don't forget that you may need to file fit the pads to the fork(file on the flats of the fork), especially on the 1-2 aluminum fork. Soak all the blockers in ATF (not synthetic) for 20ish minutes. Everybody has their own opinion about what ATF to use, but, slippery is not a blocker rings best friend. I only use non-synthetic Dexron III in the T56 rebuilds I do. The blockers like the old school ATF...

...anybody need a bunch of Mobile 1 ATF with 3 minutes of run time on it?

Thanks for the clarification Kevin. Time to order parts lol. Thanks for the tip Billy. I was planning on dexron 3 like the tag says but I was wondering about synthetic. My teardown is next week

Good luck!

This is why I share this info...the good, the bad and the ugly. If someone can learn from my mistakes, then it's worth documenting them.

Also, if you can find the Stage II upgrade through thegearbox.org, buy it and start there. Add OEM Tremec synchros and any additional billet keys and shift fork pads you wish and install it. I didn't realize that kit was so hard to get, so I didn't buy it when I saw it in stock. Then I "built" my kit from 3 vendors and that's been the source of most of my issues.

And, right now my gearbox is full of Advance auto house brand Dexron 3 (4?) ATF. It's in the gallon jug for about $19 and you'll need a loose quart for the last few ounces (it's getting difficult to find non synthetic ATF). It shifts great and I can "afford" to change fluid every year or when ever. Also, after about 500-1000 miles I'll swap the fluid to get the break in "gunk" out of there that comes off of the clutch material in the blocker rings.

All good info...Thanks for sharing!

Last time I looked they still didn't have a kit. I was just gonna build it through them or buy it from Tick. It is a little more through them but I like a "kit" better than buying the parts separately so I don't forget something that is in the kit.

I'd be hesitant to go synthetic in even a 'modern' manual transmission. The synthetic stuff tends to be very slippery. Good, yes, but it tends to be so slippery that the syncros can't 'grab' anything, leading to crunching noises when you try to pull off fast shifts. We made that mistake in the SVO's T5. It still seems okay, it's just that it'll sound like you're not depressing the clutch enough to execute your shift.

I have tons to do at work (that's how I pay for this mess) and I planned to work late last night....but it was 70 degrees here and the rain moved back from 4 pm to about 9 pm. So, I decided it would be a good night to get the convertible out...and it was. We had a nice drive and found a new gun store, tried a new pizza place and generally enjoyed the evening.

I smelled clutch a couple times, and I can only guess it's related to break in. I wasn't beating on it. It just seemed warm. I pulled into a parking lot and backed up a little, put it in first and eased forward (without brakes, so I just moved it forward from a slight backwards roll) and that seemed to be enough heat to give me a slight touch of clutch smell. I was easy on it, I've tried to be easy on it. Though I realized that I don't think we sprayed the protectant off of the pressure plate. Not sure how that happened, but I think we pulled it out of the box and installed it. I didn't even think about it at the time (not sure why, I've installed a "bunch" of clutches and never forgot that part before...but I don't remember actually doing it). So maybe I'm smelling something related to the oil cooking off. I did run it through first, second and third at one point. No slippage and the high rpm shifts are perfect. So I don't think anything needs adjusted.

My wife is quite pleased to have it back on the road. And tomorrow they are calling for snow....

Did we do that to mine? We'll know what the smell is if not!

You have a new disk, but we are reusing the pressure plate. So it wasn't treated with protectant. They "oil" them in the box to keep them from rusting. I can't remember removing it. lol. It isn't much and I'm sure it will cook off. But I really can't believe I did that...or I think I did.

Oh that's right...

My package has arrived and I should pick up the Stoptech brakes today. While we are continuing the theme of glorious overkill....I figured "why not?". I have a spare set of spindles that I can build them on and test fit my wheels. If that passes, I may toss them on the car. I was hoping to do the Rocketman hub adapters, new hubs, brakes and all the bushings and balljoints at one time. But I might do the brakes sooner. Also, these bolt to the LS1 spindles directly and don't require any cutting or modifications. So I should be able to do the upgrade without cutting on the car.

And I ordered an ATI Superdamper with 10% underdrive, an ARP bolt as well as the tools to remove and install it. That stuff should be wandering in here slowly. I figure if I'm going to do it, I should do it while the radiator and water pump are out of the car. That's about as much room as you're ever going to have to do the job. A little extra HP and additional reliability...why not?

If Steve gets the dyno run information on his project soon, I can make a better decision regarding camshafts. But I think this thing needs a small cam and a cat back. I really liked the sound and HP from the Hooker cat back on the 2001 Camaro SS I had, but I wonder if it's a little loud for a convertible? (Wife friendly? I'd love the sound of it, but I don't want her mad that it's too loud for her with the top off). Someone suggested that I should look at Corsa? Does anybody have any input on a somewhat quiet cat back that still makes decent power? I don't need "900 hp", but convertibles are heavy and I'd eventually like 50-100 extra....just because.

I believe we have a MagnaFlow exhaust system on our 95. Single 3" high-flow cat back to the crossways muffler after the diff. It's fairly loud, but is freakin' awesome with the top down, driving under overpasses with anything past 1/4 throttle.

Although I don't find it that offensive when cruising with top down, or up, it's not what I'd call quiet. Luckily, it drowns out most of the squeaks and rattles your usual 4th Gen convertible. This IS behind a 381 cu. in. LT4 engine with probably 11.5 compression and long tubes, so it's trying to do a lot with not much.

What's your definition of "soon"?

"Sometime this summer"

I'm thinking about tossing it on a trailer and going to visit Jeff Creech at Carolina Automasters and letting them do the cam and tuning, and then enjoying some summer cruising down there before heading back home. Thought it might be a fun vacation. I could do a cam swap, but I'm not sure I really want to anymore. We rebuilt that LS2 a couple years ago, so I'm fairly familiar with the procedure. Just not sure I feel like tearing into it.

I just called PCM, they are booked for tuning for a few months. But the scheduling lady is going to call me tomorrow to confirm that. I'm really hoping that since this isn't a full tune front scratch, they can squeeze us in sooner rather than later.

I'll let you know what they say.

Hey another question, is it possible to, when rebuilding a T56, to change the 5th gear rating so something a little less "overdrive"?

Yes. But I'm not 100% sure what you need to do it. I know there are some ratio options out there for T56's. I'd probably call and ask the crew at the gearbox.org to quote you the prices.

It'll probably easier to just to make 4th work using 7000 RPM and maybe slightly increasing the tire diameter if I meed more speed.

I'll still give them a call and see what they say. Thought I'd ask I case you knew.

I think you'll need to change 5th and 6th as a "set", so I suspect it will be $$$. Might just take a little rear gear out of the car, go down to a 3.23 or something like that.

From what I gathered, you can't just swap in 5/6 from another trans like the mn12. That's a shame because a t56 with the mn12 5/6 would be killer.

Disappointed to hear about the aftermarket synchros not working well. I was hoping to save some money there.

Well my "kit" showed up today. I am not sure if it will be this weekend or not so be on the look out for my help thread lol. I was installing my longer wheel studs and found a lot worn to the point of I should replace it now instead of a month after it is running. Both wheel bearings are noisy brakes are worn and the caliper pins on the front bracket are frozen. I am ordering the adapters from Jim for the hubs. Wondering if I should go ahead and do the vette brake upgrade too. I feel your pain on where should I stop but while I am in here situation lol. I always said I would upgrade the parts as they went bad/worn out but I was not planning all at once

Just yell. I'll try to help and I can flag down Racerdad for anything I can't answer (which may be a lot?).



I have two sets of bearings in the garage. OEM "seasoned" bearings. I haven't pulled them from the spindles yet, but I can likely sell you a set cheap if it helps you delay spending "real money" a while longer.



The Corvette upgrade is a solid brake package. I sold those for a while. It's also nice because you can buy parts at any parts store in the US. It's all OEM stuff. I just bought those Stoptech brakes and I fear I may need to keep pads in the trunk....just in case (though I should be able to use Porsche brake pads...if I can find those in stock at Napa...lol).

Let me see if I can get the spare hubs loose, maybe you can do them cheap, do the brakes and delay the $700 in front (C5 race) wheel bearings for a while longer?

I know all about the "while I'm in here" budget. Trust me, you're playing my song.

Thanks Kevin that would be a big help. I ordered the adapters last night since he only had one set not spoken for on this batch. I have been wanting to do the Corvette brakes for a while now. I was waiting on what I have to be worn out or something to fail. My bearings are tight but they have that wonderful click when I spin them by hand. I was happy and sad at the same time lol. I have never replaced these bearings. I bought the car with 53xxx miles it now has over 223xxx miles. They do not owe me anything 2 hpde's and a handlful of autox on them. I must be real slow compared to some due to the issues I have read a lot of people had lol. My stock replacement rear brakes should be here today. Hopefully have the trans out today too.

If the bearings aren't growling or sloppy, I wouldn't worry about them. But let me get out to the garage and see what I've got. I have a set of C4 Corvette spindles with bearings on them (the C4 and F-body bearings are interchangeable). And I have some F-body spindles with bearings (though they are often harder to remove due to a tight fit and some rust...the Corvette spindles are aluminum).

I have the C5 front brakes. I really like them. With cooling ducts, they work really well. Someday, I will upgrade to CTSV brakes once I switch to 18'.

You definitely have to change them as a set because the 5/6 gear on the main shaft is one piece.

I ordered harmonic balancer tools from Summit Racing. One is back ordered and the other shipped. It's this one:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-9001...CFRW2wAodZCgHLQ

I think I sent Steve there for the same tool.

The first one had the threads dinged pretty bad (I couldn't turn the tool past the damage by hand). So I contacted them and they gladly sent another one out and picked up the damaged one. The new one looks like it was used. I don't see actual signs of wrenches being used on it, just that it has the finish beat off of it in places and generally looks like hell. I think it will work. I don't really want to tell them to send me a 3rd one. I guess I should have run the first one back and fourth with an impact gun and been done with it.

I suspect they screw the tool together at the manufacturer and drop them in a bin. It looks like they damage each other with the threads from the jack screw. This one looks like someone beat on it with a chunk of all thread. lol. Oh well, as long as it installs my balancer....

That sucks. Mine looked brand new...I think at least. It's a nice tool, works well.

I should post a pic. They were well packed, but this one looks like it was thrown down the stairs in a box full of very large bolts and the threads dinged it up. I really think it may have been used, but it would have been reboxed. The factory fiber tape was on it and it was sealed.

My harmonic balancer tools have arrived and yesterday an ATI superdamper with 10% underdrive was delivered. If you use one of these, be warned that the ATI manual addresses two versions of their balancer and this is neither one.

There is a balancer, a hub and a pulley for the AC compressor (if you order that version). The balancer has 6 counter sunk bolt holes. One of those is offset to index the balancer to the crank hub. That leaves 3 holes and 3 12 point 1/4-20 bolts and an AC pulley. The crank hub is threaded inside those holes, but the 1/4" bolts pass through the threads and the AC pulley has two sets of threads. One is 1/4-20 and the next size appears to be larger and match what's in the crank hub. You put the 6 counter sunk bolts in place with locktite. Then you put the pulley on the rear and put the washers on each of the 1/4-20 bolts, add loctite and torque them (16 ft lbs on the counter sunk torx bit bolts and 120 in lbs on the 12 point 1/4" bolts). ATI also warns you to fill the crank key slot with RTV (silicone sealer) to avoid oil leaks. Also, if using the ARP bolt, cover both sides of the washer with RTV to seal it all up. Interesting.

My coolant leak is getting worse and I have all the parts. I think I'm going to try to put the radiator, water pump, balancer, belts, PS cooler and new hoses on the car tonight.

And today I realized the front drivers door speaker is blown. Does anybody have a 2002 Camaro drivers door Monsoon speaker laying around?

Sounds like a busy day...How did everything go?

It's all apart. I'm about to start putting it back together.

Getting the radiator out was quite challenging. It didn't want to release from the AC assembly and the fan assembly. I didn't pull the wiring harness off of the fan assembly so I didn't lift it out. I thought I could wiggle it out from between them....and eventually I did. I just had to pull the water pump first to give me room.

I got the radiator out and the water pump and throttle body are off. I decided the balancer was next (I was debating just leaving it alone). I realized I couldn't get an impact gun in there to get the bolt loose (anybody who's ever installed an LSx harmonic balancer knows those bolts are TIGHT). I debated giving up or waiting for someone to step on the brakes so I could get it loose. Instead, I put the car in 4th gear and grabbed a breaker bar. Once I lined things up I started to pull on the wrench...and the bolt popped loose. Apparently the balancer bolt was barely hand tight. Awesome. One more thing on the list of shit the dealer "techs" screwed up when they did the engine swap.

I stopped there. The ATI balancer has a slot for a key, but the LSx has no key in the crank. They tell you to pin it in place for supercharging, or to fill the key slot with silicone and to put a layer of silicon sealer on both sides of the ARP bolt and washer and install it. I figure I better do this all in one shot. I'll likely do it tonight or start on it tomorrow. I'm just getting over being sick and my wife is now sick (that's my "helper" to hold the brake while I torque things).

Kinda sucks when the hired help is down for the count, or out of the country, huh? You DID kind of get lucky with the crank bolt, though. Not a long-term solution, but it worked in your favor with the timing this time.

Today I installed the ATI harmonic balancer and the AC belt. I was getting ready to drop the radiator in when I started looking at the instructions (which suck) and noticed I had to cut the rubber mount for the lower drivers side of the radiator (but they don't tell you how) and some quick searching looked like the BeCool radiator was a real pain in the butt to install (not exactly a drop in). So, I boxed it up to return it to Jegs tomorrow and ordered a DeWitt's radiator that appears to use a drop in style design with an OEM style tank (formed out of aluminum). I was going to order a DeWitt radiator and then I found the BeCool on sale and BeCool always made nice stuff.....so I bought that. Jegs wants over $100 more than DeWitts for the DeWitts radiator...so I ordered it direct.

The ATI balancer wasn't too bad to install. I used an ARP bolt and went through the deal of pressing it on with the press, tightening the original bolt to 240 ft lbs, then installing the ARP bolt (covered in silicone sealer on the bolt and the washer to avoid oil leaks from the key slot in the ATI balancer....that you also fill with silicone). It's amazing how much flex there is in the clutch springs, but you'll feel it when torquing the bolt to 200+ ft lbs. It twists a good ways. The recommended AC belt looks to be a perfect fit. I hope the other belt lines up as well.

Once the radiator arrives, I'll drop that in and install the new Holley water pump and put things back together. The PS lines are connected to the 6an to 3/8" barb adapters to fit the new PS cooler and I think I'm in good shape to wrap this up once the last parts arrive.

Radiator arrived today. So, I got out to the garage and got busy. It's all assembled and tomorrow I'll burp the coolant and take it for a drive.

The power steering cooler fit perfectly....maybe even better than that. I'm quite pleased with it.

Interesting setup. The pictures are VERY small, so I can't really tell, but is that cooler supported in any other way than by the radiator hose?

No. I may change that. There is a clip on the radiator fan shroud that holds the stock cooler. However, it was too tight for this cooler. I removed the clip (it just unsnaps) and installed this in the hose. It doesn't weigh that much and it's connected to the PS hoses (that are tied together by GM) and the hose. It really doesn't seem likely to go very far. I'm going to see how it feels once I get it up to temp. I can always build a bracket...or buy another hose and slide it down a bit more and put the clip back to hold the hose. There is a considerable amount of clearance. It would have to move "inches" to contact anything.