Thank you sir (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

We try very hard, and honestly I guess when it is your passion and you enjoy it then it comes naturally.

13 years ago I started on LS1tech doing whatever I could to sell control arms, panhard bars and subframe connectors to people who never heard of UMI. I had to work very hard for every sale, then make sure the customer was getting a quality product and excellent service after the sale. I had to really prove ourselves on there and build a good reputation. To this day we still feel we need to do that and the other guys here feel the same, it is just who we are.

We will continue to a be a positive asset to this community. We are just getting started (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/cool2.gif)

I no long have an F-body but am just going to throw this out there. UMI should buy the rights or blueprints to UBE Tq arm and do a production run of them.

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?sho...=17190&st=0

-M

Dublin. Was in the Boston area when I signed up for the site originally, then did a stint in Michigan for a while.

Ah, you're not far away at all. I've torn up places all over Dublin for work. I know the area well.

^^^THIS goes 'without saying', but, I am REALLY glad you said it anyways!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/gr_grin.gif)

I'm still opening boxes, but here's a sneak peek.

Sweet.

Christmas in June! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

You were unboxing at 7:05 pm. It is now 10:45 pm. Why do we not have more pictures and a detailed write up of the install along with a street test yet? YOU HAVE RESPONSIBILITIES!!!!!!

Lol. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

EDIT: THIS KIT DOES NOT USE THE FRONT UPPER SPRING MOUNTS.

This kit reuses the front spring mounts (the rubber parts at the top) and I didn't want to take mine apart. That way I can keep the old stuff together and I don't have to play with spring compressors. I ran to the local parts store and they quoted me $234 for all the parts (Moog) and one was in stock locally so I had to drive 20 minutes to get it....or that's what they wanted. Instead I ordered the same Moog parts from Rockauto for $109 to my door. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Once those arrive, I'll get these built up on the bench and get ready to swap them in. I was trying not to open up all the hardware until I was installing things. I realized that I can get the rears assembled and ready to go and post that information. Maybe I'll do that tonight.

EDIT: THIS KIT DOES NOT USE THE FRONT UPPER SPRING MOUNTS.

The hardware is really NICE stuff. The shocks are beautiful. The kit includes spacers, bolts, bearings, washers, bolts, etc, it's really complete. There's a spanner wrench in the package for adjusting the coil over perches. I'm really anxious to try it out.

And I'll admit to a brief minute of brain fart. I sent Ryan a note last night when I saw the instructions mentioning that you can mount the rear shocks right side up or upside down (spring on top or bottom). The adjuster is on the top of the shock shaft (not on the body), so it will be hard to reach "right side up". But I was looking at this and thinking "you're changing which way is up and down and that will reverse the compression and rebound damping". I scratched my head a bit and realized that the shock gets shorter under compression (mounted either way) and longer under extension (mounted either way). Apparently it had been a long day and I talked myself into thinking flipping the shock would flip the valving. I figured I'd share my moment of stupid to save others. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Sorry Ryan. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif) (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif)

I would at least open the boxes and do an inventory. There are a lot of parts there, and it would sux if you were short a couple of items. I enjoyed that when I did the brakes on the Firebird. I was shorted a couple of bolts from a big box speed parts warehouse, so the project was stopped for a week waiting for replacements. Just a thought.


And we get to see more New Parts Pr0n. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

I did a quick count and everything looks to be there, I just didn't unwrap all the nicely wrapped plastic bits. Tonight I think I'm going to set them up (pending the new front upper mounts) and get it all ready to go. I can take more pics when I do that. There's a warning to put anti seize on the shock body threads if you're going to adjust it with weight on it. I hate to smear anti seize on these pretty shocks, but I guess that's the plan.

I'll get more pics up tonight. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Kevin,

This does not use the upper front rubber shock mounts, it completely eliminates them. Is that what you are talking about? Here's a picture to help show that- http://umiperformance.com/catalog/images/l...8-xxxac_LRG.jpg

We are working on better installation pictures for the site too... just behind on a few things.

Glad you like the kit!

I told you it was a long day. Ugh. lol. I thought it was showing that bolt going through the upper mount (using the single bolt hole for the original shock mount). I only skimmed the instructions and obviously I was out in left field by the time I got home. That will teach me to skim the instructions and try to get some info and pics posted. lol.

I assumed it was removing that mount. Then I read it and I thought I saw otherwise. I shouldn't do things when I'm tired.

Also, in the past I've avoided removing the upper ball joint, I just spin the upper control arm around on the ball joint. I'll let you know if I manage to do that this time and I'll try to get pics.

Ok, tonight I'll get everything out of the boxes and mock up all the parts, re-read the instructions and take some pics. Maybe I'll take a nap first. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)


They always say to "idiot proof" the instructions....and even then you'll manage to find a bigger idiot. I'm not usually that guy, but I really screwed this one up so far. lol.

Kevin, How about we just give you a redo for yesterday (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

I am excited to see what you think and how it all works out. I think you will be really pleased!

Hopefully I'm smarter today. I'll prep everything today and then I'll have to see if I can get those installed in an evening (likely two). It's not my first rodeo, so I might try it. I need to make some calls about an alignment and set something up. On the other hand, the tires that are on the car are junk anyway (if the alignment takes a couple days I'm not hurting anything). My wheels should be refinished this week and I'm supposed to have them back on Friday. I'd love to get the car done this week and we can try to catch up while your in town for Goodguys.

Now I have work to do and pictures to post. I might need to talk someone into coming over to handle photographer duties, maybe I'll capture some pics you can use.

Just for you guys, I went home on lunch and assembled the fronts. The only thing that I thought might need a little clarification was assembling the top spring perch. You have to slide the bump stop down (just grab the top of the shock mount and twist, it will slide), then put the wire spring retainer over the shock shaft and move it into the groove on the shock, then slip the spring mount over the shock shaft and lift it up to the top while squeezing the spring tabs on the wire spring...then release. It's not a big deal, but if you've never done a set before you might stare at it for a moment.

I'll double check, but I think the roller bearing and washers under the spring may be an upgrade (I just told UMI to send me all of the good stuff, options and all). And I also have the optional rear bump stops. If you're ordering the kit, there are a couple options (at least the bumpstops and maybe the bearings for the spring), I just wanted to mention it so you'd know to look for them.

I wound the perches up so the springs don't beat up the shock body while I'm moving them around, I'm fairly certain that I'll have to lower those once I install them (but maybe not?). And there isn't any anti seize on them yet. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Also, I realized why I thought we were keeping the upper rubber mounts. The instructions mention penetrating oil and a grinder to get the upper shock mount loose from the upper A arm mount. I always associate that with getting the shock shaft out of the upper mounts (where they were typically rusted in place). So, my brain just assumed we were going to be cutting the shock out of a rusty old mount. See what happens when I connect the dots on my own? (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/drink.gif)

Now, on to the pics. The pictures don't do justice to the upper shock mount. The welding and powder coating on it are absolutely beautiful, as is the rest of the kit. Really nice stuff. Did I mention that already?

Is that a new offering? I just ordered a new setup from UBE and it was a real pain to find something off the shelf to mount the shocks to that eliminated the upper bushing and was ESP legal. I ended up ordering the Afco mount a few days ago which looks to be the exact same thing.

Kevin,

Assembly looks great. We may need to add some additional shock assembly instructions, good idea. The clip that holds the top hat in place is awesome, lots of coilovers let the hat fall when the suspension unloads but Afco's clip idea is that nice touch we look for. They also use to have a hole in the hat to zip tie the spring in place but I haven't seen that in awhile.

For the options- We automatically include the thrust bearings with every kit, this way you have the right stuff the first time. It makes adjusting so much easier and saves the shock body. The rear bump stops are optional. If your factory rear rubber stops are in great shape keep those, if not buy these. We recommend using one of the other to prevent the shock from bottoming out. Like Sam always tell us, these aren't bump stops, they are bumpers. We tuned the kit to work with them.



Our kit is very similar to Afco's, we never listed them as just brackets yet but we have been making them for a long time. We use them in our street and drag kits that use Viking shocks.

That might be a good thing to cover. I'm sure it will save you some phone calls. It's a really slick way to do it, I'm impressed. And if I can save some headaches or phone calls, it's worth sharing the info here.