Nephew ~= puppy. He'll be fine!! (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

He's 13, 6ft tall and about 135 lbs. lol

Great Dane puppy?

This post has been edited by Steve91T: Jul 12 2016, 01:45 AM

Bwhahaha.....that's funny (and fairly correct).

We couldn't make any of the events this year, nothing seemed to line up with our schedule and close enough to us. Maybe next year. We are headed to Gingerman Raceway next weekend for the Motor State Challenge, we hear it's a great event!

I'm running a little behind. I never posted pics of the poly/roto joint LCA's that I recently received from UMI. I was in such a hurry to get the thing together and to the alignment shop, I forgot to post pics. As always, UMI builds first rate parts and I'm quite impressed with these.

Why poly/roto joint you ask? Well, I mentioned "wife friendly" on this project. So, that's required a few changes to my usual approach. I've never used (or really even considered) poly/"anything" LCA's in the past. But this time we are going to give it a try. The poly will damp the noises from being transmitted into the chassis, and the roto joints will allow the rear to articulate. The arc of the PHB could cause a little "binding" of the poly end, but I don't think it's actually going to have a noticeable impact in the real world. Unfortunately, I've been a bit slow and I don't have these under the car yet. I'll get them on there when I rebuild the front suspension in the near future (if not before).

Hahah I couldn't run my car any lower unless I moved to a new house or parked my car on the street. Stranos are almost too low, scrape the longtubes/cats a little if I hit the driveway just a little off angle.

Still trying to get spare time to finish the last touches on the car, it's been a weird and wild past month...

Thanks for sharing the pics of the UMI stuff, glad we've got somebody "local" to them on the boards that is also using these for what they're intended for.

I'm not sure I'm using them as intended. I'd like to do some autocrossing (even in the convertible) again soon. But I'm struggling with the "roll bar requirement" in many organizations. From a safety standpoint, I absolutely think a convertible should have roll over protection. But this car is really clean and I hate the idea of cutting/welding on it like that.

My wife asked if she bought a hardtop automatic car, could I swap the auto into this car and build the other one to race (swapping in the 6 speed from this one). (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Just a double transmission swap and I'm back in business. lol.

I don't know of any organizations that require a roll bar for autocross.

Goodguys and CAM both did. Those were the events I was considering (most recently). Though I'm an under powered CAM car, it seemed like a fun bunch. Goodguys also had a roll bar requirement for a convertible when I read the rules.

I should be able to run SCCA stuff, but I really don't know that I want to run out at trails after our discussion.

Run it at Wilmington with the Cincy region or up in Toledo

I guess it's been a while since my last update...

I'm smelling a faint amount of coolant. I opened the radiator and it's about 1/2" or so low. I raised the car and looked for the trails of coolant residue I've seen in the past and I don't see anything. If it's leaking at all, it's only the smallest amount. The radiator hoses look original and so is the radiator. So, I've added "cooling" system to my list of winter projects. I plan to swap the radiator, hoses and install fresh water pump gaskets. The new engine was installed in 2011, so it's due to have the coolant changed. This will take care of all of it at once.

I also seem to have a very small drip from the rear axle. I installed a rear axle girdle and it appears that it's weeping the slightest amount of gear lube. So I'm going to put that on the "winter list".

I've got new upper front control arms, tie rods, ball joints, lower front control arm bushings and spindles to change out this winter. I also bought the rocketman wheel bearing adapters. I need to gather up the SKF X-tracker bearings and I'd like to install a brake kit while it's all apart. I'm debating on the C5 parts, or a Baer Racing kit.

I have two slow window regulators and the passengers side is really slow. I've never had to change a window regulator motor on any of my F-bodies. Should I buy the motors or the complete motor and regulator assembly? What's the best way to change them?

And last, 2nd gear is very slightly notchy. It's not anything I can't live with, but it's a handy excuse to pull out the transmission and swap out the clutch and flywheel as well as freshening up the transmission.



It may be an expensive winter, but that should get me ready for many more years.

Here is a guide on replacing a window motor on a Camaro.

http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html

I have a Baer kit for the fronts on a '98 Pontiac Trans Am WS6. From what I remember they use the same manufacturer from Australia PBR for the calipers. The rotors are two piece and are easy to change the rings on.

Your 2nd gear is a very normal happening on an F-body, Tremec used plastic fork pads and the synchros are not very durable. And neither are the GM clutches. Sounds like you have a fun winter coming up.

Thanks. I haven't seen any how too guides for the windows. I have a shiny new set of factory service manuals, but a how to guide it always a good idea.

I had Wilwoods on my last 2002 Z28, but they don't like weather and they don't have seals. The Baer kit looks like a good option. Which kit are you running? The Track 4 or Extreme, etc.

The 2nd gear issue is pretty common, and if I'm doing the clutch anyway....I figured I'd upgrade shift forks and do the usual tune up.

What about changing to a GTO T56? I know the ratios are slightly different and it has better syncos.

Buy a drop in magnum from D&D and sell the T56. F-body cores are worth a good amount of coin.

I don't plan to race this one. It might do a few autocross events, but I can't justify spending the money for upgrading things. If it was a hardtop/t top car, I might consider it more seriously.




I could live with the trans for a while. It's not that bad, but it is occasionally notchy into 2nd. Fresh fluid might do it, but I want to do the clutch anyway. Racerdad here on frrax can do the T56 overhauls so we will do it (I just have to buy parts). No point spending more than that.

The only reason I suggested the GTO T56 was because you said you were going to rebuild your tranny. So the cost would be close to a wash.

Wow. Good luck on that clutch job. I think if the clutch went out, again, on our 95, I'd push it to the curb with a 'free to a good home' sign in the window. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

It's NOT a fun job.

What's the price on the GTO gearbox? I can buy the"Stage II" upgrade kit (claimed to be rated at 650 hp) for about $750 and we will do the labor.

http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/7824166.htm

And full bearing kit for $160:

http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/9342860.htm

Of course they are both out of stock right now (they weren't the other day). But I'm in no rush. My gearbox truly could be sold as a "good" gearbox. I think I feel 2nd gear "catch" every so often. I'm going to go through it as much because it's going to be out of the car as for any other reason. And if it's out, upgrade it. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)



The '95 clutches aren't too bad. I've done a few (and we're about to do a T56 swap for Gcrites on here). The C4 Corvette was worse. The LS1 clutches aren't too bad. I've done a few of them at this point. It's been quite a few years, but it looks like I've got at least one more to do. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)