If any year of 4th gen goes nuts in value it will probably be 2002. It's not like 3rd gen where people are like "Hmmm... '87? (first 350) '89? (best 350 cam, Turbo TA) '90? (labor dispute) '92? (last) '82 Pace Car? (slow but sweet)." 2002 Trans Ams seem to be working their way to legend status for sure due to rarity and their aggressive looks.

I don't know if the plastic radiator problem is a GM thing. Seems like they all seem to hate getting old. Ask a BMW owner!

Kevin, what you are experiencing is very similar to anyone else picking up a relatively low mileage car that has sat. The 4th generation has weaknesses such as the T56 transmission and the hydraulics for the clutch. Then there are smaller item such as window motors and turn signals and the cooling system. I am glad to see you have a budget and you are sticking to it, so many times we see builds that are astronomical and the car isn't even paid off yet. Get one problem behind you and move on.

I've built a few somewhat silly expensive cars over the years, many have been documented right here. Most of them have eventually become boring and I dumped them for one reason or another.....I'm learning from my mistakes, or I hope I am. There really wasn't a budget for this one, I tend to buy cars and start throwing money into them. I rarely say "I have $1,800 to spend", I'm not that smart. A budget would be smarter. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I expected some issues. I bought a 2002 new, and then I had that 2001 SS for a year or so. In 2011 when this got a new engine it had 43k miles. I bought it in May of 2016 at 58k. So it didn't completely sit, but it certainly wasn't a daily driver. I'd rather see a few thousand miles a year, that doesn't scare me as bad as a 2002 with 1,000 miles on it (or similar).

The T56 is only the slightest bit notchy into 2nd gear. I'm not sure that it's even worth a rebuild. But, I'm going to have it out on the floor and that tells me I should do blocker rings and such, so I'll just do the stage II upgrade and that should be the last time I'm inside it (unless I accidentally build a motor later or something unexpected happens to the gearbox). It's overkill, but I'd rather spend my time driving it and not towing it home. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) If the trans comes out, new clutch and flywheel should go in and the flywheel may as well be aluminum. lol. And since I'm already pulling the trans to replace the hydraulics....(see the rest of this paragraph).

This one had new window motors, but they are getting "slow" so it may be time to do them again. I've never put window motors in any of my 4th gen cars. I've actually never had hydraulic issues either...so this is a few "firsts".

As I said, I've smelled a faint coolant smell and it's due to be changed (engine went in back in 2011), so I may as well pull it apart, drain it all, change hoses, upgrade the radiator (in case the tanks are leaking...or they eventually will be). And to avoid PS cooler issues, I'll just do that too.

It's "project creep", but I'm keeping it as sane as I can. I'm just trying to make sure next summer is problem free and we can enjoy the car. Part of me wants 500 hp, the other part of me wants to keep this "returnable to stock"...just in case. It is a "survivor" car and it's in nice shape. I'm trying to follow my wife's instructions and avoid "spoiling" it. I think we're going to own this one for quite a few years. As long as we have a place to keep it, it's likely to stay in our possession (I'll build something else "stupid" at a later date).

However, a new Holley water pump was delivered yesterday. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) So I'm not sure how sane I really am.... (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Kevin, this might help.

When you are looking for a car, you have to know what your intentions are for the car. If it is to preserve a future collectible, then buy quality. If you plan to modify it for performance and drive it a lot, don't waste your money on buying a low mileage stock vehicle.

Well, I was planning to "clone" my old 2002 Z28 autocross car (and these things "suck" to drive in stock form with the factory springs/shocks/swaybars). When I was looking, I kept finding "junk" cars for too much money. This car popped up and it looked super clean (and it was) and I really didn't want a convertible (but my wife did since I had her hooked on T tops/Targa top cars). So, we bought it "anyway". Now I'm somewhat blindly trying to figure out what to do with it. lol. I've never been one to buy collectables or "preserve" them. I'm not even good at taking the time to wash cars. I'd make a terrible "waxer". (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) This car turned out to accidentally be nice enough that I don't want to ruin it.

I suspect I'll add a second Camaro/Firebird to the stable at some point in the future and I can do "dumb" things with it. Though I may take this to a few autocross events. It's set up for it now.

So, I'm now collecting transmission coolers. Both options have arrived. The larger one is the design Alan uses and it's rated at 7,500 BTU. The smaller is a Setrab that's rated at 5,000 BTU. Since this thing isn't going CMC racing, I think it will be enough...if I can get it to fit. I'll know more when I get the radiator and shroud out of the car.

My radiator hoses have arrived from Rock Auto and the heater hoses should be here soon. I'm just about done gathering up parts, I'm going to need time to get to the garage and get working.

And I realized that new clutch reservoirs aren't too expensive and I'm already replacing everything else. So I ordered two. I couldn't decide if I wanted to use the billet version or just stick to the OEM. I'm still not sure, but they arrived today along with the tool that's supposed to depress the release to pull the hydraulic line out of the transmission (I've always used a couple flat blade screwdrivers in the past). Guess we'll see how this works out.

They make a tool for that? You mean I don't have to jam a flat blade screwdriver into my palm when it slips?

Who knew?

http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/slave-disc...04-corvette-c5/

I bought new heater hoses from Rockauto. They weren't particularly cheap, but that was ok if they did the trick. However, the factory heater hoses are crimped (like AC lines) and these are one piece rubber lines that are likely to melt from the exhaust. I don't see a reasonable way to cut the old hoses off and reuse the aluminum pipe. I'm also not sure the heater hose assembly will come out with the engine in place. So, does anybody know if it's possible to buy the stock designed heater hoses? Or, how do they want you to cut the old stuff off and make it fit?

I guess I can buy it from Hawks for a small fortune.

http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/98-02-cama...r-hoses-new-gm/

I'm guessing I can find it elsewhere too, but I'll have to look.

Damn! Cut the old hose off, flare the aluminum lines for AN, and replace with braided steel, or Teflon hose. It's only money. (IMG:http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/style_emoticons/default/2thumbs.gif)

Seriously. That's the solution the B-body guys use to fix the leaking oil cooler lines that the aftermarket replacements don't fix.

This post has been edited by CrashTestDummy: Jan 25 2017, 03:11 AM

I've seen that approach mentioned. I think I'm just going to order the new line "kit" and replace the whole assembly. It's only money, right? lol. I really don't want to half-ass anything on this car. Speaking of which, I sent the Setrab oil cooler back and ordered a C&R Racing oil to water power steering cooler to replace the factory cooler. It appears that it should fit. I hope to see it in the next couple days and then I'll know for sure. It wasn't cheap, but I don't have to cut anything and I can keep the old unit and hoses if someone ever wanted the car returned to stock.

New cooler arrived today. This is the power steering cooler I ultimately plan to use. I'm pretty impressed with it and it looks like it will fit perfectly. It's a bit smaller than the stock cooler in the upper hose so I'm going to use the standard "non-cooler" radiator hose and trim a section out to fit. This should be the easy way to do this.

The drawing is for the 1.5" inlet model, I'm using the 1.25" inlet model. Just thought I should clarify that.

What make and model is this unit ?!

~DaVe

https://www.crracing.com/inline_power_steer...er_1_14_outlets

Kevin search the part number that Hawks has listed for the hose assembly. Found some other less expensive options but not $100 less though.

Yup, that's what I did. Ordered one this morning from one of the online GM parts places. I think it was $142 to my door ($21 in freight). So I should have that on my doorstep soon.

Now I'm going to actually have to start working on the damn thing....lol.

This is a great thread.

I would like to see a list of the parts you are putting on your car.

Thanks. I often feel like these threads are a way for me to keep track of things but I'm not always sure how much interest there is in some of my automotive ministrations. lol. I'm having fun and if someone can learn something or avoid a mistake based on my mistakes....even better.

It's kind of scattered throughout the thread, but I can try to make a concise parts list.

Basically a bad clutch master/slave (no clutch disengagement) prompted:

Ram adjustable master cylinder
Ram slave and throw out bearing
Fidanza flywheel
Centerforce dual friction clutch
Stage 2 transmission upgrade
Doorman hydraulic line (master cylinder to quick disconnect)
Ram remote slave bleeder
Hawks clutch reservoir (likely the billet one)

And a faint coolant smell convinced me it was time to add:

BeCool 2 core aluminum radiator
Power Steering cooler listed above
OEM heater hoses
heater hose to throttle body
radiator hoses
Holley Water pump

And while the coolant is out of it, I'll send the throttle body to Lingenfelter to be ported...why not?


But I got ahead of myself. I found a bent spindle when I did the alignment so I have Global West upper front control arms and all new bushings and balljoints, outer tie rod ends, used spindles, Rocketman C5 (SKF Xtracker) front hub adapters and other bits to rebuild the front. However, I can't drive it onto an alignment rack on a new clutch and that needs fixed first. So, the transmission is first, then cooling system, then I'll rebuild the front end (just a general freshening since I'm going to be in there anyway) and see where else this project goes.

I was planning to install a big brake kit and the hubs and front end stuff this winter. But the clutch took over and I've reshuffled the priorities. I hope to be at the UMI cruise in this year and maybe some power tour? Who knows where this car may pop up. I'd like to get out to enjoy it this summer.

The rest of the parts list (some already installed):

Yea, the mod list is:

UMI STB (already installed)
UMI SFC (already installed)
UMI Coil over shocks/springs (already installed)
UMI Rotojoint PHB (already installed)
UMI Sway bars (already installed)
UMI billet sway bar brackets with poly bushings (these things are artwork) (already installed)
UMI Poly/Rotojoint LCA's
Custom refinished charcoal SS wheels (already installed)
B&M Ripper (sport shifter) shifter (already installed)
Hurst Shift Knob (already installed)
SLP TCS disable module (already installed)
SLP "lid" (already installed)
Hooker cat back (possibly, my wife thinks it's a bit too loud)
Fresh fluids
Jegs Skip shift delete (already installed)
SLP front license plate bracket (needed in this state) (already installed)
Stop Tech pads (front and rear) (already installed)
Centric rotors front and rear (already installed)
TA performance rear end girdle (already installed)
iPod adapter (hooked up instead of the CD changer) (already installed)
ATI 10% underdrive balancer
Paintless dent removal for a few small spots and a little paint touch up

I've also been debating the SLP "free cold air mod" kit (that isn't free, but does the same thing while likely avoiding getting so much muck in the filter). It's worth power, but the last car I had with the free cold air mod had a filter that was caked with "mud" from the road spray. And I have to cut up the stuff under the airbox.

This is also a great time to thank Ryan and the UMI crew again for all of their help and involvement with this project. You won't meet a better bunch of gearheads anywhere. And I've had fun getting to help test the coil over kit and offering feedback on it (I think this was the first "non-UMI shop car" to see a set of these). There are a lot of choices out there but I've been extremely impressed with the parts and the crew from UMI.

Once the above list is complete, I'm considering a 212/218 .550/.550 lift cam for it *(or something similar...just say a "small", streetable cam). I don't want a high RPM monster, but 20-40 more hp would be nice. I don't want a cam that needs headers either, just a street driver with more oomph. I was talking to Jeff Creech (the Milkman) last night and we were discussing a cam package. I'm considering dragging it to the east coast this summer and dropping it at Carolina Auto Masters for a bit more power. I could do the cam and I have a dyno shop 1000 yards from my house (no joke), but I'm overdue for a trip to see Jeff and Julie (CMC#37 here) and it sounds like a great adventure to drag it south, tune it up and drive it around the east coast for a bit.

I guess the goal with this car is becoming more clear. I want "more" of everything, without ruining the cars street manners. If I could keep the stock idle and gain 50 hp some other way, I'd be fine with that. I'm not looking to do a cam for the sound (it's a bonus, but I don't care really), I just want more power and civilized street manners. I want a car I can hop in today and drive clear across country without taking a toolbox with me and spare valve springs, etc. More grip, better handling, more power...but on the mild end of things. Building a better street car (and not spoiling it or making it so I can't return it to stock or so that it sucks to drive or becomes unreliable). I think the motto is "Make it better".

Thanks for sharing. .. subscribed