Is this cam going to need headers??? Also how much for a tune?

The Texas Speed cam will benefit from headers but not required. A live tune is $500.

That Vindicator cam has 18* of overlap @ .050" lift, Papa wouldn't care for that Unfortunately, you don't ever know what you're getting into until you inspect it. I got a used LS1 shortblock years ago from PA with Wiseco slugs in it for $1000 which lasted me for a few years, you might be able to haggle him down if it has 100K miles on the stock rotating assembly. I don't have any personal experience, but I've read concerns in the past about high volume oil pumps pumping oil out of the pan faster... might want to look into that. I've always replaced parts which are relatively inexpensive during builds, and that includes oil pump, pickup tube, etc.

I would change that big cam to the Texas Speed cam I mentioned earlier. I'd sell the vindicator cam

I'm sticking with the block I have. It'd be too much work and risk to get another used block. If that block had the cam I wanted, then that might be worth it.

Anyway, I picked out a set of wheels for my dad. I know, not very original.

http://www.forgestar.com/wheels/collection...ock-series/f14/

18x11's with 315/30/18's. Think it'll be too wide for the street? Remember it won't be a daily.

Whether they'll be too wide for the street is subjective. I run 17x11 315/35/17 NT05's in my daily driver the last few years, but I'm in Florida and where I drive the pavement is in pretty good shape.

Ok that's good to know. Roads are pretty good here also

Finally got back to work on the 1sc and got the engine out!

Actually my daughter did all the work, I'm just taking credit.

The quick jack lift made life so much easier. Still had to lift the front, but it was still much easier than using floor jacks.












The cool thing I wheeled the whole thing back under the car sideways so I can still get my Camaro in



Time to start ordering fun parts!

Steve

What did you end up doing for parts??

Nothing yet. Off the top of my head...

Small Texas speed cam kit
Ls2 timing chain set
Ls7 lifters
ARP head studs
New Polly motor mounts
Turn One is going to rebuild the steering rack

Damnit truck....I didn't need this right now.








See that out of place quarter looking thing? Well it broke loose and was bouncing around in the bell housing and would randomly jam itself somewhere causing the clutch to not disengage. I baby my clutche. This South Bend clutch should have lasted me....forever. Anyway, I found a great shop that's giving me a 24 hr turn around and a LUK clutch and flywheel. I just kindly need to give them about $1300 in return.

South bend clutch ... NV5600 in a Dodge ?

TRUCK DETAILS please

~DaVe

I believe this is his 7.3 liter power stroke with a manual trans (I've swapped a 7.3 diesel in a 2001 once upon a time, I forget what clutch we put in it though).

That a ZF6 out of a 99 F250 7.3.

That's DEFINITELY something I'd let the pros tackle!!

Oh yeah. That thing is massive. It weighs like 250 lbs not including the transfer case.

I just got off the phone with South Bend. They saw the pictures and said that I'm like the 5 person to ever have a spring rivet fail. So because it was nothing I did wrong, they are sending me a new clutch. I looked it up, I bought this clutch 7 years ago, but only put about 35k miles ago...and they are still sending me a new clutch. That's pretty awesome.

That's pretty impressive. And that pressure plate looks about new. I don't see any real signs of wear on it, or is that just a trick due to the angle of the photo?

No that's what it looks like. I really am easy on clutches. Having granny gear really helps. Even when pulling my car or boat, starting off in granny requires no gas, just let the clutch out and it'll engage. So I never slip it.

That's why I was so upset that the clutch broke. The way I drive the truck, it honestly should last me 200k miles.

In other news, I ordered about $1500 worth of fun parts for the 1SC!

Ok here's my list of what I ordered. Please tell me if I missed something or if there's something I should consider doing while the engine is out.

Texas Speed cam kit
224/224 .600/.600 (112 LSA)
PAC 1218 single beehive springs
7.400" pushrods
Camshaft bolt/gasket kit w/ARP bolt
LS7 lifters

GM head gaskets
GM LS2 timing chain
Texas Speed ported LS6 oil pump


Improved Racing
Oil pan baffles
Crank scraper
O ring
Oil tube brace

Turn One
Rebuilt rack

GM motor mounts

Tune

Ahh, forgot the ARP head bolts. I knew I'd forget something. What else did I forget? Don't say the blower.

Unless you are planning to remove the heads a number of times (or if money isn't really an object), I'd probably opt for standard GM non-reusable head bolts. The ARP bolts are saving you the cost of buying numerous sets of single-use OEM head bolts over the course of time, but bolts still are a pain in the ass when you have to clean out the bolt holes. Studs don't have the problem with cleaning out the bolt holes, but they are even more expensive and some have difficulty pulling the heads with the motor still in the car with studs.

I'd put the money I saved on bolts/studs towards a better timing chain, such as the Katech HME-G68V-2 ($150) or the slightly newer and beefier Hinson IWIS C7R timing chain ($160). I've read that you will have a lot of chain slack with the LS2 chain without a chain dampener. For my LS3 I used the Katech with the OEM LS3 chain dampener, but I don't recall what type of dampener may be available for your block or any special installation considerations.

Here's a running list I have for my future top end rebuild; maybe you'll see some generic part types in here which will tickle your memory. I may not need all of it, but I like to have a complete list of part numbers for ease of ordering.

Lifters (.035" preload +/- .010", requires ~.190" longer pushrod): Johnson ST2126LSR
Head gaskets (custom 4.080" bore, .045" thickness): Cometic
3/8" intake pushrods, .145 wall, .062" orifice (5/16" ball ends), tapered?: Manton Series 3
3/8" exhaust pushrods, .145 wall, .062" orifice (5/16" ball ends), tapered?: Manton Series 3
LS3 assembled cylinder head (hollow int valve): OEM new, send to Darin Morgan for porting
Dual valvesprings w/ tool steel retainers: Brian Tooley SK001
Rocker arm trunnion kit: Straub Technologies
head bolts/studs: Undecided
Water pump gaskets: OEM
valve cover gaskets: OEM
intake manifold bolt (I have one snapped bolt): OEM
Spark plugs: NGK TR6
Front cover seal: OEM
Front cover gasket: OEM
Rear cover (with seal & gasket): OEM
Crankshaft bolt: OEM
Exhaust gasket: OEM
Header bolts: Stage 8 Locking
2-Piece LS2 Gen IV timing cover: Edelbrock 4255
Camshaft
Crank scraper
Oil filter pan magnet: FilterMag SS365-Pair
Clutch: RPS Twin Billet Carbon 2, lightened from Tony Mamo
Slave cylinder & throwout bearing:OEM
Remote clutch speed bleeder: Tick Performance
1 7/8" header primary's: ARH

lifters? Lifter tray, Oil pick-up tube o-ring, exhaust gaskets. I'm going to assume valve cover, intake, water pump, front cover gaskets and seal. Valve seals? oil pan gasket. If the motor is out of the car for the heads TTY bolts are easy.

Thanks, I edited my post to include the lifters. I didn't get lifter trays though. I'll order them. I also ordered exhaust manifold gaskets, and the oil pan gasket.

I ordered the front gasket kit from Texas Speed, I'll have to look up what exactly it includes.

I didn't do valve seals. I don't know how to change them. Are they easy?

Steve

Yes they are easy especially after the valve springs are off. I'm a bit confused. I know the motor you removed munched the lifters and cam. Are you just fixing what is broken? or did you find another motor?

John

No I'm just fixing what's broke. I decided to pull the engine because I know it needs motor mounts and I want to drop the pan to add the improved racing goodies.

exhaust manifold to y-pipe gaskets. Coolant cross over pipe gasket. Again I don't know what comes with the gasket set. Also you might want to consider a clutch/throw-out bearing while apart. This is the issue when the engine is out/apart. What to do/not do. You might also consider having a machine shop check the heads. They could install the springs/seals when apart. Again Do/not do.

GM LS6 timing chain damper (PN reference): http://store.katechengines.com/damper-timi...--ls6-p260.aspx
An alternative: http://www.briantooleyracing.com/ls6-timin...o-88958607.html

Actually I wasn't even planning on separating the tranny from the engine. It already has an LS7 clutch in it and possibly a light flywheel. I can't remember on the flywheel. Either way, it felt great when I drove it, so I'm going to leave it alone.

It's really tough to decide what to replace and what to leave alone. I'm so tempted to just drop the whole engine off at a shop and let them go through it. But that's a ton of money. I really want to just get it back together and see how it does.

My mom and dad came over last night to eat my food and drink my beer. While drinking my beer we went to the garage and looked at the engine sitting on the garage floor. I showed him the carbon on the heads and we both agree that the very least I'll drop them off at a machine shop and have them cleaned up and decked. The machine shop said they could bump compression up a bit without causing any problems. I'd have to do more research on that though.

Then we started talking about the bottom end. While its out, I could drop it off and have it freshened up also. The shop said about $1k for labor. So $1500 total would be a low end price, but that doesn't include the parts I just ordered.

If my dad was definitely going to keep this thing for a long time, I'd say let's get it freshened up. But he may only keep it for a few years. I really don't know.

As of right now, with just the parts I've ordered, we're into the car for $4600 plus whatever tuning costs. Another thing that he absolutely needs is new wheels. So let's say after cleaning the heads and a mail order tune, we're at $5k. Another $1k for wheels and tires after I sell the 16's. So that's $6k for a mildly cammed LS1 with 172k miles on the bottom end. Or $7500 or so for the same thing but with a fresh engine.


I'm torn.

I'd go with the $6k all-in unless you're planning on running a lot of auto-x or track days. Even then, I'd probably just save for a fresh short block in case you ka-boom that one.

With those miles, a fresh engine won't bring any more money unless you find someone who REALLY likes the car.

As far as machine work on the heads, I'd get a quote and run that vs. Ebay 799 heads. There are a bunch of sellers on there for ~$500 shipped already freshened. If your's need guides too, it might be a push.

Yeah I agree. The machine shop said it was about $200 to clean and deck the heads plus parts.

Turn One is looking at a 2 week turn around to rebuild the rack. Any recommendations for rebuilt units anywhere else?

More fun parts showed up!!!

NOW it's a party!

My ACdelco rebuild from rock auto has given zero issues. Turn one builds a great pump, but they don't do anything special to the racks.

How much did you pay? Looks expensive

A reman acdelco rack is 225 on rock auto, including a $75 core charge. Turn one rebuilds start at $225 plus shipping both ways. Even though you have to pay to shop your core back, it still ends up being cheaper. The rebuild process is no different between the two.

Did some cleaning tonight.








I think I'm going to clean the heads up myself.

Oh I see it. I was looking at the wrong thing.

Thank you.

Any idea what type of pistons you have in that block? I've never seen a piston with a darker circle in the center of the head, new or after cleanup.

No clue. I'll some research. They should be stock. This engine is from a 1 owner car.

I thought flat top pistons were 4.8 pistons.

No i know the LS1 came with flat tops.

So, what's the latest? What did you do with the engine? Is it back together yet?

Life has gotten in the way once again!!! I've been out of town a ton, way more than usual. I'm actually going to try to get the cam swapped tonight once I get home. And I should be getting my heads back soon.

Oh I think I forgot to mention that. So my buddy is a spotter for one of the NASCAR cup drivers and obviously knows a bunch of people in the sport. Well one of his good friends used to build NASCAR engines for one of the teams and has a little side business building engines. He has my heads and is going to clean them under for me.

So hopefully soon I'll have this thing back in the car! Soon as in less than like 4 months. Lol

Excellent! I'm anxious to see how it does. (I'm about to pull the transmission out of mine due to dead hydraulics...I'm 3 weeks behind on getting my own junk apart...lol).

Off to a fantastic start...

Dang! I don't think that will polish out.

I'm just going to JB weld it. Jk

I called fluidamper and they were super nice. They said now that it's a paperweight, put the puller on it again, pour the heat to it and beat it with a hammer. It's still not budging.

Any ideas? This sucks.